[Shotimes] Re: E-Brake Cable Replacement - Was Brake Booster R&R Tips

[Ken Johnson]

Thanks for all the tips on my rear brake dragging. I will probably do the
e-brake cable first since I am assuming that to be an easier job.

Looking at the Helms manual it looks like there are 3 cables and conduits,
the front, rear left and rear right.  I am assuming that I should just
replace all 3 in order to be safe or is it just the rears that are suspect ?

I have not looked into the cost of the OEM parts but I assmue they are more
$$ than an aftermarket equivalent.  Has anyone had a positive experience
with aftermarket e-brake cables ?

Thanks,
Ken
'95 Blue MTX
'91 Mocha Winter Beater
'91 Jewel Green Parts Car


----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
To: "Ken Johnson" <kdjsho@comcast.net>
Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 7:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Brake Booster R&R Tips Wanted


> The hardest part of any of this is the diagnosis.  Duh!  I'm always mad at
> myself when I blindly replace parts out of frustration, but sometimes
> process of elimination is the easiest path to take.
>
> My recent e-brake experience was rather simple to diagnose in the
> following sense.  When I engaged the e-brake, the car would be held by the
> brake.  When I released the brake, the car would move but have a little
> resistance. But what gave it away was a drooping cable under the left side
> of the car.  Somewhere along the way something must have snagged the
> sheathing on the left rear cable and bent it at a 90 degree angle.  There
> were other signs of some type of damage like the ABS cable eventually
> failed.  I never knew what it was.  I decided I prefer having a functional
> e-brake so I spent the few hundred dollars to get it fixed.
>
> Other reasons I can think of include: slider pins frozen, and rear cable
> lines.  Never had a problem with the brake booster, so hope you haven't
> jinxed me!!!
>
> A final anecdote.  A friend of mine here hails from central Michigan.  The
> story goes that a lot of people will simply cut their e-brake cables off
> of their new cars because within six months of ownership they will get
> stranded somewhere because their e-brake cable gets stuck on.
> --
> Cheers,
> Carl Prochilo
> 1992 Ultra Red Crimson
>
> Ken Johnson said:
> > Not sure if I have adequately ruled out the stuck e-brake cable.  I
guess
> > I
> > am going on my past experience and replacing the brake booster seemed to
> > fix
> > this problem.  In addition, the fact that my brake pedal does not seem
to
> > snap back up also tells me it is the brake booster not a stuck cable.
> >
> > Having said this, since I am having trouble finding a new brake booster
> > for
> > under $300.00, it might be worth changing the cable since I am assuming
> > that
> > the parts for that job are a lot less and even if the cable is not
giving
> > me
> > a problem now I am sure it is only a matter of time before it does.  I
> > have
> > seen the stuck e-brake suggested many times on the list but never seen a
> > list of parts that are replaced....is it just the cable that gets
replaced
> > ?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ken
> > '95 MTX Daily Driver
> > '91 Mocha Winter Beater
> > '91 Jewel Green Parts Car
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
> > To: "Ken Johnson" <kdjsho@comcast.net>
> > Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 9:20 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Brake Booster R&R Tips Wanted
> >
> >
> >> Have you ruled out other things like a sticking e-brake cable?
> >> --
> >> Cheers,
> >> Carl Prochilo
> >> 1992 Ultra Red Crimson
> >>
> >> Ken Johnson said:
> >> > My rear brakes are dragging.  Seems to be the same problem I had with
> >> my
> >> > '91
> >> > at about the same milage.  When the engine compartment gets hot the
> >> rear
> >> > brakes start to drag.  I can notice it at stops because the car does
> >> not
> >> > roll to a stop it sticks ever so slightly.  I also get much more
brake
> >> > dust
> >> > on my rear rims than on my fronts.
> >> >
> >> > So not sure if the members of this list told me about what was
> >> happening
> >> > or
> >> > if it was the dealer (probably was the list).  When the brake booster
> >> > heats
> >> > up a spring in the booster starts to loose its rate and it keeps the
> > brake
> >> > pedal from returning all the way to the top which results in some
> >> > hydraulic
> >> > pressure remaining in the rear brake circuit. Sometimes I actually
> >> lift
> >> > the
> >> > pedal up with my foot after I come to a stop if I feel the brakes
> >> > dragging.
> >> > The dealer replace the booster (part was $301, P/N F4DZ2005A) and the
> >> > problem was fixed.
> >> > ***Someone....anyone feel free to correct me if this is not what is
> > really
> >> > going **
> >> >
> >> > I have been having this problem for some time now on my '95.  I found
> >> a
> >> > stuck rear caliper last spring and thought that was the culprit, but
> > after
> >> > I
> >> > put on new pads, calipers and rotors all the way around (including
the
> > '96
> >> > upgrade for the fronts) the problem did not go away.
> >> >
> >> > So this was going to be my next move (once I got concurrance with the
> >> > list).
> >> > However I have not bought the booster yet and got a quote of $460 for
> > just
> >> > the booster from my Ford Dealer and Lou Fusz Ford was not much
better.
> >> > Someone said they got the booster and the master cylinder for
$160...I
> >> > would
> >> > love to know where they got that deal.
> >> >
> >> > Ken
> >> > '95 Blue MTX
> >> >
> >> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> > From: "Kevin & Cheryl Airth" <clubairth@peoplepc.com>
> >> > To: "Ken Johnson" <kdjsho@comcast.net>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >> > Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 1:04 PM
> >> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Brake Booster R&R Tips Wanted
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >> Ken:
> >> >>  The master cylinder is pretty expensive about $180 and up. Can I
ask
> >> >> why
> >> >> you are replacing the booster? I am still looking for the cause of a
> >> >> metal
> >> >> can sounding click when the brake pedal is depressed all the way.
> > Sounds
> >> >> like spring steel popping back and fourth. I replaced the master
> >> >> cylinder
> >> >> with no change in the sound. The car seems to have a soft long
pedal.
> >> > Brake
> >> >> fluid flushed and system bleed many times. Including a trip to the
> >> >> dealer
> >> > to
> >> >> bleed the ABS HCU. I am suspicious of the booster but not sure?
Could
> >> >> you
> >> >> let the list know what you paid and where you found it?
> >> >> Thanks!
> >> >> .
> >> >> .
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> > Anybody got any tips on R&R the brake booster on my '95 MTX.  Have
> > the
> >> >> Helm
> >> >> > manual and seems pretty straight forward, are there any surprises
I
> >> > should
> >> >> be
> >> >> > prepared for ?
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Was not planning on replacing the master cylinder unless it is a
> > cheap
> >> >> part.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Thanks,
> >> >> > Ken
> >> >> > '95 Blue MTX - Daily Dirver
> >> >> _______________________________________________
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