[Shotimes] Re: E-Brake Cable Replacement - Was Brake
Booster R&R Tips
Mike.Wojton@us.o-i.com
Mike.Wojton@us.o-i.com
Wed, 5 Nov 2003 08:29:02 -0500
I just had my 2 rear cables replaced. Had it done at a shop because
I didn't have time and I use it everyday to park in my driveway. (the
brake on the passenger side stuck when the parking brake was released)
So I can't speak of prices. What I will tell you is to make sure you
secure the cables out of the way of moving parts. This is the second
time these cables have been replaced. The first time, they weren't
secured to anything and ended up rubbing on the control arms. Wore
through the outer casing and let water in, resulting in rust.
Mike Wojton
Toledo, Ohio
-'95 Green MTX 3/01-1/03 R.I.P.
ShoShop y-pipe
-'95 White MTX
'96 Brake Upgrade
Do not taunt Happy Fun Ball.
shotimes-admin@autox.team.net wrote on 11/04/2003 09:24:00 PM:
> Thanks for all the tips on my rear brake dragging. I will probably do
the
> e-brake cable first since I am assuming that to be an easier job.
>
> Looking at the Helms manual it looks like there are 3 cables and
conduits,
> the front, rear left and rear right. I am assuming that I should just
> replace all 3 in order to be safe or is it just the rears that are
suspect ?
>
> I have not looked into the cost of the OEM parts but I assmue they are
more
> $$ than an aftermarket equivalent. Has anyone had a positive experience
> with aftermarket e-brake cables ?
>
> Thanks,
> Ken
> '95 Blue MTX
> '91 Mocha Winter Beater
> '91 Jewel Green Parts Car
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
> To: "Ken Johnson" <kdjsho@comcast.net>
> Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 7:25 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Brake Booster R&R Tips Wanted
>
>
> > The hardest part of any of this is the diagnosis. Duh! I'm always
mad at
> > myself when I blindly replace parts out of frustration, but sometimes
> > process of elimination is the easiest path to take.
> >
> > My recent e-brake experience was rather simple to diagnose in the
> > following sense. When I engaged the e-brake, the car would be held by
the
> > brake. When I released the brake, the car would move but have a
little
> > resistance. But what gave it away was a drooping cable under the left
side
> > of the car. Somewhere along the way something must have snagged the
> > sheathing on the left rear cable and bent it at a 90 degree angle.
There
> > were other signs of some type of damage like the ABS cable eventually
> > failed. I never knew what it was. I decided I prefer having a
functional
> > e-brake so I spent the few hundred dollars to get it fixed.
> >
> > Other reasons I can think of include: slider pins frozen, and rear
cable
> > lines. Never had a problem with the brake booster, so hope you
haven't
> > jinxed me!!!
> >
> > A final anecdote. A friend of mine here hails from central Michigan.
The
> > story goes that a lot of people will simply cut their e-brake cables
off
> > of their new cars because within six months of ownership they will get
> > stranded somewhere because their e-brake cable gets stuck on.
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > Carl Prochilo
> > 1992 Ultra Red Crimson
> >
> > Ken Johnson said:
> > > Not sure if I have adequately ruled out the stuck e-brake cable. I
> guess
> > > I
> > > am going on my past experience and replacing the brake booster
seemed to
> > > fix
> > > this problem. In addition, the fact that my brake pedal does not
seem
> to
> > > snap back up also tells me it is the brake booster not a stuck
cable.
> > >
> > > Having said this, since I am having trouble finding a new brake
booster
> > > for
> > > under $300.00, it might be worth changing the cable since I am
assuming
> > > that
> > > the parts for that job are a lot less and even if the cable is not
> giving
> > > me
> > > a problem now I am sure it is only a matter of time before it does.
I
> > > have
> > > seen the stuck e-brake suggested many times on the list but never
seen a
> > > list of parts that are replaced....is it just the cable that gets
> replaced
> > > ?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Ken
> > > '95 MTX Daily Driver
> > > '91 Mocha Winter Beater
> > > '91 Jewel Green Parts Car
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
> > > To: "Ken Johnson" <kdjsho@comcast.net>
> > > Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 9:20 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Brake Booster R&R Tips Wanted
> > >
> > >
> > >> Have you ruled out other things like a sticking e-brake cable?
> > >> --
> > >> Cheers,
> > >> Carl Prochilo
> > >> 1992 Ultra Red Crimson
> > >>
> > >> Ken Johnson said:
> > >> > My rear brakes are dragging. Seems to be the same problem I had
with
> > >> my
> > >> > '91
> > >> > at about the same milage. When the engine compartment gets hot
the
> > >> rear
> > >> > brakes start to drag. I can notice it at stops because the car
does
> > >> not
> > >> > roll to a stop it sticks ever so slightly. I also get much more
> brake
> > >> > dust
> > >> > on my rear rims than on my fronts.
> > >> >
> > >> > So not sure if the members of this list told me about what was
> > >> happening
> > >> > or
> > >> > if it was the dealer (probably was the list). When the brake
booster
> > >> > heats
> > >> > up a spring in the booster starts to loose its rate and it keeps
the
> > > brake
> > >> > pedal from returning all the way to the top which results in some
> > >> > hydraulic
> > >> > pressure remaining in the rear brake circuit. Sometimes I
actually
> > >> lift
> > >> > the
> > >> > pedal up with my foot after I come to a stop if I feel the brakes
> > >> > dragging.
> > >> > The dealer replace the booster (part was $301, P/N F4DZ2005A) and
the
> > >> > problem was fixed.
> > >> > ***Someone....anyone feel free to correct me if this is not what
is
> > > really
> > >> > going **
> > >> >
> > >> > I have been having this problem for some time now on my '95. I
found
> > >> a
> > >> > stuck rear caliper last spring and thought that was the culprit,
but
> > > after
> > >> > I
> > >> > put on new pads, calipers and rotors all the way around
(including
> the
> > > '96
> > >> > upgrade for the fronts) the problem did not go away.
> > >> >
> > >> > So this was going to be my next move (once I got concurrance with
the
> > >> > list).
> > >> > However I have not bought the booster yet and got a quote of $460
for
> > > just
> > >> > the booster from my Ford Dealer and Lou Fusz Ford was not much
> better.
> > >> > Someone said they got the booster and the master cylinder for
> $160...I
> > >> > would
> > >> > love to know where they got that deal.
> > >> >
> > >> > Ken
> > >> > '95 Blue MTX
> > >> >
> > >> > ----- Original Message -----
> > >> > From: "Kevin & Cheryl Airth" <clubairth@peoplepc.com>
> > >> > To: "Ken Johnson" <kdjsho@comcast.net>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > >> > Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 1:04 PM
> > >> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Brake Booster R&R Tips Wanted
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >> Ken:
> > >> >> The master cylinder is pretty expensive about $180 and up. Can
I
> ask
> > >> >> why
> > >> >> you are replacing the booster? I am still looking for the cause
of a
> > >> >> metal
> > >> >> can sounding click when the brake pedal is depressed all the
way.
> > > Sounds
> > >> >> like spring steel popping back and fourth. I replaced the master
> > >> >> cylinder
> > >> >> with no change in the sound. The car seems to have a soft long
> pedal.
> > >> > Brake
> > >> >> fluid flushed and system bleed many times. Including a trip to
the
> > >> >> dealer
> > >> > to
> > >> >> bleed the ABS HCU. I am suspicious of the booster but not sure?
> Could
> > >> >> you
> > >> >> let the list know what you paid and where you found it?
> > >> >> Thanks!
> > >> >> .
> > >> >> .
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >> > Anybody got any tips on R&R the brake booster on my '95 MTX.
Have
> > > the
> > >> >> Helm
> > >> >> > manual and seems pretty straight forward, are there any
surprises
> I
> > >> > should
> > >> >> be
> > >> >> > prepared for ?
> > >> >> >
> > >> >> > Was not planning on replacing the master cylinder unless it is
a
> > > cheap
> > >> >> part.
> > >> >> >
> > >> >> > Thanks,
> > >> >> > Ken
> > >> >> > '95 Blue MTX - Daily Dirver
> > >> >> _______________________________________________
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