[Shotimes] Re: E-Brake Cable Replacement - Was Brake Booster R&R Tips

Steve Weinrich stevwein@swbell.net
Wed, 5 Nov 2003 07:47:19 -0600 

Ken,

I just replaced both rear cables on my 89 last spring.  I did not replace
the front cable.  You can disconnect the front cable from the rears (under
the B pillar) and check the front cable and rear cables for smooth operation
or for binding.

I used the Wagners which I ordered from Rockauto for $13 each.  Wagner hoses
were another $19 each.  Replacement of the cables was not overly difficult,
just nuts and bolts with a bit of PB Blaster on my salt whore.

The Wagners (F129200 and F129201) were perfect matches for the originals and
work perfectly.  Wagner is a well respected brand name as is Raybestos.

Steve

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Johnson" <kdjsho@comcast.net>
To: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 8:24 PM
Subject: [Shotimes] Re: E-Brake Cable Replacement - Was Brake Booster R&R
Tips


> Thanks for all the tips on my rear brake dragging. I will probably do the
> e-brake cable first since I am assuming that to be an easier job.
>
> Looking at the Helms manual it looks like there are 3 cables and conduits,
> the front, rear left and rear right.  I am assuming that I should just
> replace all 3 in order to be safe or is it just the rears that are suspect
?
>
> I have not looked into the cost of the OEM parts but I assmue they are
more
> $$ than an aftermarket equivalent.  Has anyone had a positive experience
> with aftermarket e-brake cables ?
>
> Thanks,
> Ken
> '95 Blue MTX
> '91 Mocha Winter Beater
> '91 Jewel Green Parts Car
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
> To: "Ken Johnson" <kdjsho@comcast.net>
> Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 7:25 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Brake Booster R&R Tips Wanted
>
>
> > The hardest part of any of this is the diagnosis.  Duh!  I'm always mad
at
> > myself when I blindly replace parts out of frustration, but sometimes
> > process of elimination is the easiest path to take.
> >
> > My recent e-brake experience was rather simple to diagnose in the
> > following sense.  When I engaged the e-brake, the car would be held by
the
> > brake.  When I released the brake, the car would move but have a little
> > resistance. But what gave it away was a drooping cable under the left
side
> > of the car.  Somewhere along the way something must have snagged the
> > sheathing on the left rear cable and bent it at a 90 degree angle.
There
> > were other signs of some type of damage like the ABS cable eventually
> > failed.  I never knew what it was.  I decided I prefer having a
functional
> > e-brake so I spent the few hundred dollars to get it fixed.
> >
> > Other reasons I can think of include: slider pins frozen, and rear cable
> > lines.  Never had a problem with the brake booster, so hope you haven't
> > jinxed me!!!
> >
> > A final anecdote.  A friend of mine here hails from central Michigan.
The
> > story goes that a lot of people will simply cut their e-brake cables off
> > of their new cars because within six months of ownership they will get
> > stranded somewhere because their e-brake cable gets stuck on.
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > Carl Prochilo
> > 1992 Ultra Red Crimson
> >
> > Ken Johnson said:
> > > Not sure if I have adequately ruled out the stuck e-brake cable.  I
> guess
> > > I
> > > am going on my past experience and replacing the brake booster seemed
to
> > > fix
> > > this problem.  In addition, the fact that my brake pedal does not seem
> to
> > > snap back up also tells me it is the brake booster not a stuck cable.
> > >
> > > Having said this, since I am having trouble finding a new brake
booster
> > > for
> > > under $300.00, it might be worth changing the cable since I am
assuming
> > > that
> > > the parts for that job are a lot less and even if the cable is not
> giving
> > > me
> > > a problem now I am sure it is only a matter of time before it does.  I
> > > have
> > > seen the stuck e-brake suggested many times on the list but never seen
a
> > > list of parts that are replaced....is it just the cable that gets
> replaced
> > > ?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Ken
> > > '95 MTX Daily Driver
> > > '91 Mocha Winter Beater
> > > '91 Jewel Green Parts Car
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
> > > To: "Ken Johnson" <kdjsho@comcast.net>
> > > Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 9:20 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Brake Booster R&R Tips Wanted
> > >
> > >
> > >> Have you ruled out other things like a sticking e-brake cable?
> > >> --
> > >> Cheers,
> > >> Carl Prochilo
> > >> 1992 Ultra Red Crimson
> > >>
> > >> Ken Johnson said:
> > >> > My rear brakes are dragging.  Seems to be the same problem I had
with
> > >> my
> > >> > '91
> > >> > at about the same milage.  When the engine compartment gets hot the
> > >> rear
> > >> > brakes start to drag.  I can notice it at stops because the car
does
> > >> not
> > >> > roll to a stop it sticks ever so slightly.  I also get much more
> brake
> > >> > dust
> > >> > on my rear rims than on my fronts.
> > >> >
> > >> > So not sure if the members of this list told me about what was
> > >> happening
> > >> > or
> > >> > if it was the dealer (probably was the list).  When the brake
booster
> > >> > heats
> > >> > up a spring in the booster starts to loose its rate and it keeps
the
> > > brake
> > >> > pedal from returning all the way to the top which results in some
> > >> > hydraulic
> > >> > pressure remaining in the rear brake circuit. Sometimes I actually
> > >> lift
> > >> > the
> > >> > pedal up with my foot after I come to a stop if I feel the brakes
> > >> > dragging.
> > >> > The dealer replace the booster (part was $301, P/N F4DZ2005A) and
the
> > >> > problem was fixed.
> > >> > ***Someone....anyone feel free to correct me if this is not what is
> > > really
> > >> > going **
> > >> >
> > >> > I have been having this problem for some time now on my '95.  I
found
> > >> a
> > >> > stuck rear caliper last spring and thought that was the culprit,
but
> > > after
> > >> > I
> > >> > put on new pads, calipers and rotors all the way around (including
> the
> > > '96
> > >> > upgrade for the fronts) the problem did not go away.
> > >> >
> > >> > So this was going to be my next move (once I got concurrance with
the
> > >> > list).
> > >> > However I have not bought the booster yet and got a quote of $460
for
> > > just
> > >> > the booster from my Ford Dealer and Lou Fusz Ford was not much
> better.
> > >> > Someone said they got the booster and the master cylinder for
> $160...I
> > >> > would
> > >> > love to know where they got that deal.
> > >> >
> > >> > Ken
> > >> > '95 Blue MTX
> > >> >
> > >> > ----- Original Message -----
> > >> > From: "Kevin & Cheryl Airth" <clubairth@peoplepc.com>
> > >> > To: "Ken Johnson" <kdjsho@comcast.net>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > >> > Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 1:04 PM
> > >> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Brake Booster R&R Tips Wanted
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >> Ken:
> > >> >>  The master cylinder is pretty expensive about $180 and up. Can I
> ask
> > >> >> why
> > >> >> you are replacing the booster? I am still looking for the cause of
a
> > >> >> metal
> > >> >> can sounding click when the brake pedal is depressed all the way.
> > > Sounds
> > >> >> like spring steel popping back and fourth. I replaced the master
> > >> >> cylinder
> > >> >> with no change in the sound. The car seems to have a soft long
> pedal.
> > >> > Brake
> > >> >> fluid flushed and system bleed many times. Including a trip to the
> > >> >> dealer
> > >> > to
> > >> >> bleed the ABS HCU. I am suspicious of the booster but not sure?
> Could
> > >> >> you
> > >> >> let the list know what you paid and where you found it?
> > >> >> Thanks!
> > >> >> .
> > >> >> .
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >> > Anybody got any tips on R&R the brake booster on my '95 MTX.
Have
> > > the
> > >> >> Helm
> > >> >> > manual and seems pretty straight forward, are there any
surprises
> I
> > >> > should
> > >> >> be
> > >> >> > prepared for ?
> > >> >> >
> > >> >> > Was not planning on replacing the master cylinder unless it is a
> > > cheap
> > >> >> part.
> > >> >> >
> > >> >> > Thanks,
> > >> >> > Ken
> > >> >> > '95 Blue MTX - Daily Dirver
> > >> >> _______________________________________________
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> > >> >> Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > >> >> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
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