[Shotimes] sho won't start

Kevin & Cheryl Airth clubairth@peoplepc.com
Wed, 8 Oct 2003 09:25:06 -0500


Ben:
 If you hear the click at the relay box, it should be OK. I would now check
for power at the pump itself. Yes this means dropping the tank. It could be
the pump or a wiring problem leading to the pump. Several people have had
corrosion at the connections. I don't know if your in salt country or not?
 If you do buy a pump get the 190 lph model. It's upgraded but still runs
very quiet. I think someone has posted the link for fuel pumps. I have used
this guy (APE) and he has great prices and fast service.
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/
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> Ok, so i tried the fuel pump test by jumpering it at the test plug.  I
> hear a click each time i ground it by this IRCM box your talking about
> but no pump noise.  does this mean the box is toast or should it click
> ( for a mechanical relay? ) and the pump is not working?
>
> On Monday, October 6, 2003, at 06:40 PM, Kevin & Cheryl Airth wrote:
>
> > Ben:
> >  Before you change the pump try to jumper it at the test plug. It
> > should run
> > continuous. The fuel pump lead is grounded and then the key is turned
> > on.
> > The fuel pump lead is where you ran KOEO test. Hold the EEC test plug
> > with 4
> > pins pointing up. The pin all the way to the side with the short angle
> > is
> > what you want to ground. Can you hear the pump running?
> >
> >  If this still does not run the pump then I would change the IRCM.
> > This is
> > the black metal box under the radiator shield over the radiator. Can't
> > see
> > it very well but has a big plug running to it. This is more likely
> > than the
> > pump. Most pumps fail slowly with reduced output and increased noise.
> > The
> > relay box has a quick "overnight" failure mode. You can also wire in a
> > external relay for the fuel pump to avoid replacing the IRCM. I have
> > done
> > this on one of my SHO's and it works fine. If you need a diagram and
> > instructions let me know. Your problem sounds electrical whatever it
> > is. But
> > get a good strong battery or keep a trickle charger going to keep
> > voltage
> > up.
> > .
> > .
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> i've checked those fuses, and everything is ok.  I've tried running
> >> the
> >> KOEO test, and the car makes noises but i may have run the battery too
> >> low to finish the test because i never see the Check Engine light
> >> flash
> >> for any codes.  I checked the valve on the fuel rails and there is no
> >> spray of fuel out...so i would guess no fuel pressure.  would this
> >> point to a faulty fuel pump?  i have checked the fuel reset button in
> >> the trunk and it is not tripped.  thanks everybody for your help.
> >> this
> >> is my daily driver and i'm stuck at home till i get it running.
> >>
> >> Ben Zientek.
> >
> >
> >>> Ben:
> >>>  Check the fuses under the hood. It's a black plastic cover on the
> >>> drivers
> >>> side firewall. About 10 fuses. On the ATX cars there is a 10 amp fuse
> >>> that
> >>> powers the ignition and the low coolant sensor. If the low coolant
> >>> sensor
> >>> shorts out and takes down this 10 amp fuse the car will have no
> >>> spark.
> >>> Did
> >>> you pull all the fuses in the under hood box?
> >>>
> >>>  Also depress the test valve on your fuel rails just to verify that
> >>> you have
> >>> fuel spraying out.
> >>> .
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> I'm in need of some help,  I have a 94 SHO atx.  I has been working
> >>>> fine up until this morning when i tried to start it.  It turns over
> >>>> but
> >>>> does not start.  I've check all the fuses, and the fuel reset
> >>>> switch.
> >>>> those are ok.  It ran fine friday evening when i drove it for about
> >>>> half hour coming home from work where it had sat for about 6 days
> >>>> when
> >>>> i was traveling.  it has fuel, i had filled it up before my trip,
> >>>> and
> >>>> the gauge shows fuel.  does anybody have any other ideas why it
> >>>> would
> >>>> just not start now?  thanks for any help.
> >>>>
> >>>> Ben Zientek