[Shotimes] More A/C questions!

Paul L Fisher sho@paul-fisher.com
Wed, 3 Sep 2003 14:52:09 -0500


Aha! I knew someone would have the scoop!
-- 

Paul L Fisher
'93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 177K Build date 11/18/1992
- K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back, Holley 
190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus 
Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 
oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.

SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm

Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6


Quoting "Chris \"Zap\"" <zap@columbus.rr.com>:

> To do a proper retrofit:
>     -System oil must be replaced with POE oil (Ester Oil).  R-134a isn't
> compatable with Mineral oil from R-12.
>     -Accumulator must be replaced with R-134a model (dessicant bag could
> break and then goes the whole system)
>     -Liquid line with PROPER orifice tube must be installed to get decent
> cooling.  This is the step which is sometimes not done       properly,
> resulting in bad cooling with a functioning system.
>     -Remaining components should be flushed to ensure cleanliness and
> removal of most of the mineral oil
>     -O-rings should be replaced with R-134a style (green in color)
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Paul L Fisher" <sho@paul-fisher.com>
> To: <stevetatro@att.net>; "Steve Tatro" <stevetatro_shotimes@att.net>
> Cc: "'SHOTimes'" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 3:34 PM
> Subject: RE: [Shotimes] More A/C questions!
> 
> 
> > Well, from what I understand, you should replace some other parts as well
> like
> > the drier and one or two other parts. That is the thing, most 'conversion
> kits'
> > only do it half-assed and end up costing you in the long run.
> >
> > I believe there is something about the compressor oil between the R134a
> and the
> > R12 being different and it gets in to something that should be replaced.
> >
> > As I said, Ford used to have a TSB that listed all the proper parts for
> the
> > conversion and it listed out somewhere around $350 for all the parts. In
> your
> > case, you would have to add a compressor and labor.
> >
> > Find a local A/C shop and ask them what they think.
> > -- 
> >
> > Paul L Fisher
> > '93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 177K Build date 11/18/1992
> > - K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back,
> Holley
> > 190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus
> > Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000
> 0W-30
> > oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.
> >
> > SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
> > Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
> > Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm
> >
> > Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6
> >
> >
> > Quoting Steve Tatro <stevetatro_shotimes@att.net>:
> >
> > > You think the cost of the R-12 is worth it?  It will cost a bundle, no?
> > >
> > > I figured I could get a conversion kit with new rings, the R134a, and
> the
> > > fittings and be somewhat happy.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Steve Tatro
> > > Red/Black '93 with 170k miles
> > > Cincinnati, Ohio
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Paul L Fisher [mailto:sho@paul-fisher.com]
> > > Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 2:48 PM
> > > To: stevetatro@att.net; Steve Tatro
> > > Cc: 'SHOTimes'
> > > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] More A/C questions!
> > >
> > >
> > > You already mentioned less efficient. It is WAY less efficient. Also,
> there
> > > are
> > > official Ford kits out there to convert to R134a. Don't just go to
> Autozone
> > > and
> > > get their $19.95 kit.
> > >
> > > If it is just your compressor that is toast, redo it with R12.
> > > -- 
> > >
> > > Paul L Fisher
> > > '93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 177K Build date 11/18/1992
> > > - K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back,
> Holley
> > >
> > > 190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus
> > > Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000
> 0W-30
> > >
> > > oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.
> > >
> > > SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
> > > Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
> > > Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm
> > >
> > > Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6
> > >
> > >
> > > Quoting Steve Tatro <stevetatro_shotimes@att.net>:
> > >
> > > > Okay, here's my plan.
> > > >
> > > > Since my SHO is officially an old piece of garbage, and it's trade-in
> > > > value (based on KBB, Edmunds, etc.) is now under $1000, I want to fix
> > > > my a/c compressor as cheaply as possible.
> > > >
> > > > So, I'm going to have the old R-12 evacuated, remove/replace the
> > > > compressor and clutch, convert the fittings to the new R-134a style,
> > > > and refill the system.
> > > >
> > > > Can anybody give me a reason NOT to do this?  I know the system can't
> > > > be as efficient, but I'm not about to dump $1500 into it.  Sorry if
> > > > you don't like me now ;^)
> > > >
> > > > Is there any possible damage this can cause?  I have friend who's
> > > > taking hands-on car shop classes, and when they needed to replace the
> > > > compressor on an old S-10, this is exactly what they did.  I'm not
> > > > saying it's the best way, but will it work and not cause any further
> > > > damage?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks as always,
> > > >
> > > > Steve Tatro
> > > > Red/Black '93 with 170k miles
> > > > Cincinnati, Ohio
> > > >
> > > > P.S.  PFish, does your air work?  If so, it may be cost-effective for
> > > > me to just buy your car.  I'd probably forget which one is which
> > > > though ;^) _______________________________________________
> > > > Shotimes mailing list
> > > > Shotimes@autox.team.net http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> > > >
> > >
> > >
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> 
> 
> 


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