[Shotimes] question #3 of 4 - spark plugs and wires

[Donald Mallinson]

James,

On the fuel, at 18 months, you could try starting the car, 
but I would run that fuel out and put in fresh as soon as 
possible.  Heck, use the old fuel in a lawn mower if you 
siphon some out!

Taking your time bringing the car back sure can't hurt 
anything.  I would drain and change the oil and filter only 
because it could have some moisure condensation build-up. 
Cheap insurance to drain and re-fill.  Fill the oil filter 
as much as possible before you put it on.

Take out that plug and clean it off, check for carbon 
tracking (black or grey streaks) on the plug and the boot. 
If you find some, then replace them.

At 20k, the plugs should be fine.  While in there, I would 
pull them and just inspect them, but if they look good, then 
put them back in.  Use a gap gauge on them if for no other 
reason to clean the tips a bit.

BEfore you start the car, unplug the DIS and crank the motor 
a few rounds till the oil pressure comes up.  Not more than 
about 10 seconds at most!

Then plug in the DIS and the car should come to life like it 
had been shut off yesterday.

Be careful the first mile or so, make sure that the brakes 
are OK before hitting the street.

A flush and bleed of the brake fluid would be a good thing 
to do while you are taking your time with this car.

Don Mallinson

James F. Ryan III wrote:
> Don,
> 
> 
>>How long was it in storage?
> 
> 
> The car has not been started/driven for 18 months.
> 
> 
> 
>>I really don't think  you have to remove the
>>fuel rail and check there, it should be OK.
> 
> 
> I could have changed the oil, coolant and thermostat, and put a new battery
> in and been driving it a few weeks ago, but I decided to be anal and take my
> time and clean/check everything.  I even scrubbed the bottom of the
> engine/transaxle and subframe.  Kudos to you on the Simple Green, Don.  I've
> used it many times before but I never would have thought it was strong
> enough to attack oil and grease like it did.  Unlike Gunk, it smells good
> and I didn't have to worry about it dripping on me.
> 
> 
> 
>>IT is OK to remove the plugs, if there is oil in the hole,
> 
> 
> All 6 plug wells are clean and dry.  I didn't want to remove the #5 plug
> until everyone had a chance to see the crud on the hex part of the plug.
> The plugs and wires have less than 20k on them, do you still think I should
> change the plugs?  I just wanted to take them out to check the 'health' of
> the engine.
> 
> 
> 
> Jim Ryan
> Wayne, NJ
> '91 PLUS - all white/mocha with fiberglass hood, rod shifter, & rear spoiler
> 
> 255 Lph fuel pump, SHO Shop can & horn, 80mm MAF, S&B cone filter, SHO Shop
> HiFlow Y-pipe & cat-back exhaust, SHO Shop LPM, SHO Shop underdrive pulleys,
> SHO Shop HiRevs Jr clutch & steel billet LiteWeight flywheel, reinforced
> engine & trans mounts, SHO Shop TQ limiters, SHO NUT aluminum SFBs, FPS '96
> SHO front brakes, Carbotech F brake pads, Nook's full-body SFCs, Koni adj
> struts, SHO Shop linear springs, 24mm FSB, 26mm RSB, SHO Shop steel f&r
> STBs, Bridgestone Potenza RE-730 225/55-16, CATZ MSP fog lights, police
> grille
> 
> 
> 
> 
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Donald Mallinson [mailto:dmall@mwonline.net]
>>Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2003 4:59 PM
>>To: James F. Ryan III; shotimeS
>>Subject: Re: [Shotimes] question #3 of 4 - spark plugs and wires
>>
>>
>>James,
>>
>>How long was it in storage?  Putting in fresh gas is a good
>>precaution.  I really don't think  you have to remove the
>>fuel rail and check there, it should be OK.  The crud in the
>>intake path is pretty normal, maybe a bit high, but if the
>>car uses more than a quart ever 2000 or so miles, that is
>>the explanation, some extra blowby from a worn motor could
>>do that.  Again, not something to worry a lot about.
>>
>>IT is OK to remove the plugs, if there is oil in the hole,
>>just try to soak up as much as you can with a rag poked into
>>the holes with a long thin screwdriver.  Let the rest drain
>>in, it won't hurt.  Clean everything, put in new plugs while
>>there, and new wires if they are bad.
>>
>>Seal up the valve coveres again with some gasket maker, and
>>put it back together.  Should start up just fine.
>>
>>Turn the key on and off several times to get the fuel system
>>good and primed.
>>
>>Don Mallinson