[Shotimes] CV Boot Torn

Leigh Smith leighsm@comcast.net
Wed, 24 Sep 2003 22:16:34 -0400


Maybe I'm just old (fashioned ) that is, but I see no sense in replacing 
a perfectly good axle, just because of a tear in a $20 boot. Just change 
it s-o-o-n, before it starts clicking.

Split boots is a normal wear item, with no warning.  Some go at 20-60k, 
but I've had GM nylon boots go 220k+.
A CV joint will outlast the car if it is always kept clean.

I believe the real issue is are you paying someone else to do the work? 
Or are you doing it yourself?

If you are paying someone else, get the reman axles. $300-350 job I'd 
guess, half parts./ half labor. But guaranteed results.

If you can pull the axle yourself, you can certainly clean the CV joint 
and change the boot yourself.  (However, if it is already making noise, 
the joint is trash, replace it.) I think shelling out $20-40 on short 
notice is a lot easier than $400.

Pulling them is the hard part! No special tools / knowledge required, 
just a little messy. (c-clip pliers?) Like playing with mud. Wash 
everthing down in carb or brake cleaner. Then wash up and keep the new 
grease clean. 15 min job after it's out. Total cost $20 per boot, maybe 
$80 total. Make sure you use the new Ford boots, which are more like 
plastic/eurathane, and not cheap rubber replacements. The rubber ones do 
not last long. With a rebuild, who knows what quality boot you will get, 
or what condition the old CV joint is in from someone elses car. They 
don't replace that part. I like sticking with known issues. And with our 
cars, its sometimes hard to get the SHO part, not the SLO part.

My old Silver Bullet '89 with 255K is still on it's original axles & CV 
joints, but several sets of boots later, especially the right outer one 
(three? four?). Must be a heat issue there, some have looked almost burned.
I've had the plastic boots last over 100k  plus miles, while the rubber 
ones lasted as little as a year.

An alternative view
Lee
My cars never see a shop, except my garage.


Patty Doyle wrote:

>I concur that it would be far more cost effective in the long run to replace the passenger side half shaft...........
>your cost for just the boot replacement will be mainly for the labor and the replacement of the shaft is the same there.  I suggest you go to O'Reilly's and get the Cardone aftermarket rebuild........you will find it is the OEM just rebuilt by Cardone............cost approx. 119.00 that includes the core charge of 60.00, then go to a brake shop or other front end rebuilder and they should take about 1/2 or less to do the install.....make sure they use the ring and seal from the tranny side and that it is seated properly........the rest is a no-brainer.............this way you will have hub and axle boots all new, greased and sealed.........then take the half-shaft they give you back to O'Reilly's and they will reimburse you the 60.00 core charge..........Voila........you will have a much better trip knowing that at least the axle will not fail on the passenger side.............this is the downside to story, however......:::  you should replace the driver's side as well at th!
>e same
> time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
>Patty.......
>...ask me how I know...............done it 3 times already!
>Snowwind currently at @318,041 miles............and well-booted and sealed.
>
>
>1990  White S H O:  Snowwind:316K..very stock, very OEM1991  Black S H O:  Bart:202K, very modded, many non-OEM
>
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