[Shotimes] CV Boot Torn

[Kirk Doucette]

I can get remaned axels for 50 bucks. Why change a 20.00 boot and go through
the BS of trying to get to the clip ring buried in 800lbs of grease.

Kirk J Doucette
NESHOC President
Stormtrooper-97 White

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Leigh Smith
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 10:17 PM
Cc: shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] CV Boot Torn

Maybe I'm just old (fashioned ) that is, but I see no sense in replacing
a perfectly good axle, just because of a tear in a $20 boot. Just change
it s-o-o-n, before it starts clicking.

Split boots is a normal wear item, with no warning.  Some go at 20-60k,
but I've had GM nylon boots go 220k+.
A CV joint will outlast the car if it is always kept clean.

I believe the real issue is are you paying someone else to do the work?
Or are you doing it yourself?

If you are paying someone else, get the reman axles. $300-350 job I'd
guess, half parts./ half labor. But guaranteed results.

If you can pull the axle yourself, you can certainly clean the CV joint
and change the boot yourself.  (However, if it is already making noise,
the joint is trash, replace it.) I think shelling out $20-40 on short
notice is a lot easier than $400.

Pulling them is the hard part! No special tools / knowledge required,
just a little messy. (c-clip pliers?) Like playing with mud. Wash
everthing down in carb or brake cleaner. Then wash up and keep the new
grease clean. 15 min job after it's out. Total cost $20 per boot, maybe
$80 total. Make sure you use the new Ford boots, which are more like
plastic/eurathane, and not cheap rubber replacements. The rubber ones do
not last long. With a rebuild, who knows what quality boot you will get,
or what condition the old CV joint is in from someone elses car. They
don't replace that part. I like sticking with known issues. And with our
cars, its sometimes hard to get the SHO part, not the SLO part.

My old Silver Bullet '89 with 255K is still on it's original axles & CV
joints, but several sets of boots later, especially the right outer one
(three? four?). Must be a heat issue there, some have looked almost burned.
I've had the plastic boots last over 100k  plus miles, while the rubber
ones lasted as little as a year.

An alternative view
Lee
My cars never see a shop, except my garage.


Patty Doyle wrote:

>I concur that it would be far more cost effective in the long run to
replace the passenger side half shaft...........
>your cost for just the boot replacement will be mainly for the labor and
the replacement of the shaft is the same there.  I suggest you go to
O'Reilly's and get the Cardone aftermarket rebuild........you will find it
is the OEM just rebuilt by Cardone............cost approx. 119.00 that
includes the core charge of 60.00, then go to a brake shop or other front
end rebuilder and they should take about 1/2 or less to do the
install.....make sure they use the ring and seal from the tranny side and
that it is seated properly........the rest is a no-brainer.............this
way you will have hub and axle boots all new, greased and
sealed.........then take the half-shaft they give you back to O'Reilly's and
they will reimburse you the 60.00 core charge..........Voila........you will
have a much better trip knowing that at least the axle will not fail on the
passenger side.............this is the downside to story, however......:::
you should replace the driver's side as well at t!
h!
>e same
> time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
>Patty.......
>...ask me how I know...............done it 3 times already!
>Snowwind currently at @318,041 miles............and well-booted and sealed.
>
>
>1990  White S H O:  Snowwind:316K..very stock, very OEM1991  Black S H O:
Bart:202K, very modded, many non-OEM
>
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