[Shotimes] Time for rod bearing swap

[Paul L Fisher]

PB Blaster. Drench the bolts with it the night before and spray it every
hour or so. Mine came of without breaking.

As for tips, the biggest tip is to do a dry run on re-installing the oil pan
without any RTV on it. It takes some practice. Until you can put it on
without hitting anything on the way up, don't put the RTV on.

Don't over-do the RTV. The Fel-Pro kit has just enough RTV with it.

Don't believe the torque value in the Helms for the oil pickup tube studs.
As soon as I started thinking "Gee, that seems like a big #", the stud
broke. Luckily it came out easily and I used a bolt. The Helms has 2 torque
numbers. Take the lower one. In my Helms, the one in the actual step-by-step
was wrong, the one at the end of the chapter with all the other torque
values was right. I sold my Helms so I can't help you.


Paul L Fisher

1999 Ford Taurus SHO TR 68K - Kirk'ed 2/29/04.

 - Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30

 - Amsoil TS-124 Oiled Foam air filter

Visit my website: http://www.paul-fisher.com

SHOClub Member: http://www.shoclub.com

Amsoil dealer: http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil


-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave Hammond
Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 6:35 PM
To: shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shotimes] Time for rod bearing swap

Hi all-

I am getting a list of parts together to do the oil pan gaskets/rod bearings

swap on my 94 ATX.  As of right now I have an oil leak coming from the pan 
and so I figure I may as well swap out the bearings while I am in there.
The 
car has 151,000 miles on it so I figure it would be worth doing.  I have 
already gone through the page that Kurt Metros put together on doing the 
swap, and have a Helms manual handy, but I am wondering if there are any 
tips/tricks you all can share that will make the job easier.  The biggest 
hassle in my mind is going to be pulling the y-pipe that has never been 
removed from that car before.  I have already started hosing down the studs 
nightly with PB blaster but don't hold out much hope.  So I guess I have a 
few questions for the list on this job overall...

1.  From what I can gather the gasket for the oil pan is 2 pieces, I haven't

pulled it yet and don't have the new gaskets yet to look at so bear with me.

What do I need to RTV, where, and how much do I need to use?

2.  When I am swapping out the bearings is it necessary to use assembly lube

or can I just use motor oil?  I assume I only need to coat the side that
will 
be facing the crank, is that correct?  The car will go back in service after

this job is done, it will not be sitting for a long period of time.

3.  Any tips for pulling out that y-pipe that has never been removed in its 
151,000 mile history would be appreciated.  The car has lived its life in MN

& WI so I have already started praying about this job.

4.  Are there any other things that I need to check or swap while I am doing

this project?  I have included a part list as of right now, is there
anything 
else I need that isn't on the list?  I would like to get the order in
tonight 
yet or tomorrow at the latest..

6 sets - Clevite cb-1435p bearings
1 set - Felpro OS30636r oil pan gasket
1 set - Felpro TCS45871 oil pump gasket kit (to cover any gaskets I am
missing 
or might be mangled)
1 exhaust flex pipe gasket - #E6DZ5E241A
Oil and filter of course.  The car has been running Mobil 1 10w-30 since 60k

miles when I bought it.  Would I be wise to go to something thicker?

Thanks for any help,
Dave
94 ATX
Lots of suspension mods, not many engine mods.
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