[Shotimes] Steering problems???

[Paul L Fisher]

Go to your local full service parts store (NAPA, for example), and have them do 
it. Prettyclose to impossible without a press. A guy with a press took 2 hours 
to do mine. I'm not saying that is normal, just that it is tough!
-- 

Paul L Fisher
'93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 180K Build date 11/18/1992
- K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back, Holley 
190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus 
Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 
oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.

SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm



Quoting Shaun & Meggen Livermore <smlivermore@wi.rr.com>:

> Alright, I decided to replace both the wheel bearings and the ball
> joint.  I removed the knuckle but I don't know how to extract the hub
> from the knuckle.  The book says to use a press, but unfortunately I
> don't have one.  Any suggestions?  Thanks!
> 
> Shaun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you all had a wonderful New Year!  Here's the situation.  My car
> when you brake pulls hard to the left, while the steering wheel turns to
> the right.  I inspected the brakes and they do not appear to be
> sticking.  I think I narrowed the problem down to the right front tire.
> When the tires are up in the air I rocked the tire from side to side.
> There is play in there that shouldn't be.  According to the book, this
> could be caused by the inner, or outer tie rods, or the wheel bearings.
> Here's my question.  I noticed play from side to side in the lower
> control arm balljoint.  The book says to rock up and down to test that
> so I'm not sure if that play is normal.  Second, I replaced the outer
> tie rod end so that isn't the problem.  Now I'm left with the wheel
> bearings and the inner tie rod.  How do I tell which one it is?
> 
> Thanks a lot!
> Shaun
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