[Shotimes] Steering problems???

[Paul L Fisher]

One more thing, when the hub nut is not up to proper torque, even the new 
bearing will feel like it is bad. The proper torque is something like 205 ft 
lbs. Don't use an impact wrench, Autozone has a torque wrench and the proper 
socket for loan to do the job right.
-- 

Paul L Fisher
'93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 180K Build date 11/18/1992
- K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back, Holley 
190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus 
Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 
oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.

SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm



Quoting Shaun & Meggen Livermore <smlivermore@wi.rr.com>:

> Alright, I decided to replace both the wheel bearings and the ball
> joint.  I removed the knuckle but I don't know how to extract the hub
> from the knuckle.  The book says to use a press, but unfortunately I
> don't have one.  Any suggestions?  Thanks!
> 
> Shaun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you all had a wonderful New Year!  Here's the situation.  My car
> when you brake pulls hard to the left, while the steering wheel turns to
> the right.  I inspected the brakes and they do not appear to be
> sticking.  I think I narrowed the problem down to the right front tire.
> When the tires are up in the air I rocked the tire from side to side.
> There is play in there that shouldn't be.  According to the book, this
> could be caused by the inner, or outer tie rods, or the wheel bearings.
> Here's my question.  I noticed play from side to side in the lower
> control arm balljoint.  The book says to rock up and down to test that
> so I'm not sure if that play is normal.  Second, I replaced the outer
> tie rod end so that isn't the problem.  Now I'm left with the wheel
> bearings and the inner tie rod.  How do I tell which one it is?
> 
> Thanks a lot!
> Shaun
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