[Shotimes] Retrofitting A/C

Wed, 2 Jun 2004 16:29:51 -0400

Hmm.  The used assembly I got off eBay came with the ends sealed up 
tight with duct tape.  Not knowing any better, I removed the duct 
tape when I thought I was going to install the line, and left it off 
until I actually installed it about 4 days later.

I figured out which is the low side -- The one my charging tool fits 
on to by the firewall.  I also found the oil and refrigerant capacity 
on a label under the hood -- 8 oz ester oil and 31 oz 134a.

I was all ready to charge it, but I couldn't get the compressor to 
kick in.  So I wound up taking it to a shop and they charged it for 
me.  He said there's a low-pressure safety switch you need to jumper 
to start the compressor when it's not charged.

So it's blowing cold air now.  We'll see if it holds up.

BTW, if you ever have to replace the evaporator, do yourself a favor 
and attach the hoses before you tighten down the nuts that hold the 
core housing in.  Otherwise you'll need to remove the rear exhaust 
manifold heat shield to get the hose on, and cuss and bend the shield 
to get it to clear the now attached hose to get it back on.

Now I have another problem puzzling me.  If I accelerate hard and 
then let off the gas, the tachometer will sometimes twitch towards 
zero, and the CEL will always illuminate a few seconds afterward.

I pulled the continuous codes and I get a 212 and 219.  Both seem to 
indicate a loss of spark signal (SPOUT).  I would suspect a wiring 
problem except that it always happens when letting off the gas after 
hard acceleration, never at any other time.

I recall my Mustang has a "SPOUT connector", which is just a small 
jumper (maybe a resistor) that you remove to inhibit spark advance. 
Do Gen 2 SHOs have one of these?  I looked and couldn't find one.  If 
mine is simply missing, that would be a real easy problem to fix.

I have already replaced the crank sensor, cam sensor, DIS module, 
HEGO sensors, plug well seals, plugs, and ignition wires, so they can 
be ruled out.

Maybe I'll pull out the PCM and see if someone stuck a chip on it...

It's a 92 MTX in case you missed my first post.

>A new (used) drier is no good. The drier has a desiccant bag inside it and
>absorbs moisture as soon as it is exposed to outside air. That means, if it
>is allowed to see outside air for more than a week (depends on the
>humidity), the desiccant bag is used up. That is the one piece I would buy
>new. When you get a new one, you will notice both ends are capped. I would
>not uncap them until just before install and I would not install until just
>before I had it professionally vacuumed and put the Freon in.
>
>There should be a notation on a sticker under the hood as to how much
>oil/Freon to put in.
>
>As to actually charging it, you have to pull a vacuum 1st.
>
>
>Paul L Fisher
>
>'99 Ford Taurus SHO Toreador Red Clearcoat Metallic 66K - Kirk'ed 2/29/04
>
>  - Amsoil Two-Stage Air Filter - TS-124
>
>SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
>Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
>Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Jonas Diener
>Sent: Monday, May 31, 2004 11:55 PM
>To: shotimes@autox.team.net
>Subject: [Shotimes] Retrofitting A/C
>
>I have a '92 MTX that had a non-working A/C when I bought it.  For
>some reason I can't fathom, one of the previous owners hacksawed a
>section out of the upper line leading to the evaporator.
>
>Also, shortly after I got it, the compressor seized up.  I had
>removed the compressor and been running the alternator on a short
>belt.
>
>Now I'm trying to get the system working again using 134a.  Maybe I
>should mention that this is my first time doing any type of A/C work
>on a car.
>
>I bought a new (used) compressor, and a new (used) upper line/dryer
>that had previously been used with 134a.
>
>I also wound up having to replace the evaporator with a new one due
>to a one of the stems snapping off in my hand whilst removing the
>line.  Quite a PITA, but I got it done. Did the heater core at the
>same time.
>
>Anyhoo, I flushed out the rest of the lines and the condensor with
>methanol, installed all new green 134a-type o-rings, and put the
>system back together.
>
>Now it's time to charge it.  I have 4 12 oz cans of 134a, 12 oz of
>ester oil, and a cheapie "EZ-Chill" gauge/charging tool.
>
>Though I've looked all over, I can't find the specifications anywhere
>that say how much oil and refrigerant to put in to the system.  Does
>anyone know, or know where or find them?
>
>I understand that when converting from R12 to 134a, one should
>determine the specified amount of R12, and add 80% of that amount of
>134a, and to use the same amount of oil as specified for R12.
>
>Also, I understand I am supposed to hook the charging tool to the
>charging port on the "low side".  I am not sure which port this is.
>I see two -- One near the condenser towards the front of the car, and
>one on the large line next to the firewall that connects to the upper
>stem of the evaporator.
>
>I have 134a port fitting adapters.
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