[Shotimes] BRAKE PROBLEMS (sorta long, but an easy read!)

[Carl Prochilo]

I've noticed that the pin furthest forward on each side has the problem. 
I don't know if that's concidence or based on the way the brakes work.
-- 
Cheers,
Carl Prochilo
92 Ultra Red Crimson

On Fri, June 25, 2004 2:40 pm, Paul Nimz said:
> I've too had pin problems.  I take them out once a year and regrease them.
> Used some anti-seize grease this time.
>
> Paul Nimz
> '97 TR
> '93 EG mtx
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Leigh Smith" <leighsm@comcast.net>
> To: <jkoper@frankgates.com>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 25, 2004 10:33 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] BRAKE PROBLEMS (sorta long, but an easy read!)
>
>
>> Fronts:
>> Q: Are the pads wearing / grabbing evenly, or just one side?
>> One side would lead me to suspect pin issues.
>> My 89 SHO had original calipers & pins with 262 miles. But pin corrosion
> (in
>> NJ) caused me to find the pins needed cleaning more frequently than pad
>> changes, every 20-40k mi vs 60-80k for good $100 pads.
>> I found I had to emery cloth the pins, and grease them with silicone
> grease,
>> and replace the rubber seals occassionally. The pins should slide easily
>> under light finger pressure. The bracket holes I had to wirebrush /
>> sandpaper to clean. The pins should slide easily under light finger
>> pressure. I had one pin rust solid & lock-up in the bracket once.  Wear
>> clearances weren't the issue, it was rust build-up.
>>
>> You can also test the front pistons for corrosion, open the bleeder
>> valve,
>> and you should be able to move the piston with figer pressure, no
> sticking.
>> BTW the rear is different here. The rubber seal itself is all the
>> pressure
>> there is that causes the piston to retract slightly from the rotor.
>>
>> Rears: Make sure you check for restricted rear flex hoses. Open the
> bleeder
>> valve on a caliper and see if the e-brake works better. That brake that
>> won't grab should improve.
>>
>> Lee
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Jim Koper" <jkoper@frankgates.com>
>> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 5:56 PM
>> Subject: [Shotimes] BRAKE PROBLEMS (sorta long, but an easy read!)
>>
>>
>> > Hello all,
>> >
>> > I have a 92 SHO with 141,000 miles, several BRAKE-RELATED ISSUES.
>> >
>> > FRONTS: both are dragging. I already replaced the flex hoses and
> calipers
>> > about 1.5 to 2 years ago (Wagner rebuilts). Why do they go bad (stick)
> so
>> > soon? Any remedies I am missing? I bleed the brakes every year in
>> > preparation for the convention, so old brake fluid would not be a
>> factor
>> in
>> > the 'return' of the brakes. MPG and performance are obviously
>> down--hate
>> > running the car like this, as the engine is working much harder than
>> it
>> > needs to. I cleaned and regreased the fronts, but it didn't make a
>> > noticeable difference.
>> >
>> > If the pins have even wear marks (a series of shinier rings around the
>> pin),
>> > do they need replacing or just cleaned and lubed?
>> >
>> >
>> > REARS: After about a year of NOT using the e-brake, I applied it last
>> week.
>> > (I know the e-brake adjusts the rear pads as they wear, but I didn't
> want
>> it
>> > freezing up in the winter.) Big mistake. I smelled burnt pads within a
> few
>> > miles.  I pulled the wheels to check it out.
>> >
>> > Applying and then 'releasing' the e-brake causes the RR caliper to
>> 'lock
>> up'
>> > (the return spring on the caliper doesn't return caliper to the
>> 'e-brake
>> > off' position. I use a pry bar to return the lever to its natural
>> position.
>> > Sound familiar?
>> >
>> > The LR e-brake cable does pull the caliper lever--however, I can still
>> spin
>> > the rotor freely!! How would THAT happen? The pads and rotor seem to
>> be
>> > wearing, so the hydraulic portion of this work OK.
>> >
>> > BTW, I replaced BOTH rear cables 3 years ago. Moisture seems to get in
> at
>> > (1) the end near the caliper and (2) where that clear plastic
>> sheathing
>> > surrounds the coiled cable (middle of the entire cable, near the rear
>> > control arms).
>> >
>> > Any way to recondition the e-brake cables? They are not that old! I've
>> tried
>> > PB blaster, a bit of heat, silicone spray, lithium grease on the
>> cables.
>> >
>> > Have any of you found the front release cable (connects to the
>> interior
>> > release handle) to be faulty?
>> >
>> > Are the return springs on the rear calipers too weak/bad design and
>> has
>> > anyone modified them? It seems if they were of a higher tension that
> they
>> > could keep the e-brake cable functional.
>> >
>> > What do you guys and ladies do to fix such problems (or better yet,
>> prevent
>> > them from happening in the first place?
>> >
>> > Is the only real solution to replace all four calipers? The rears were
>> > replaced 3.5 years ago (new pins and boots last year).
>> >
>> > Would replacing the MASTER CYLINDER solve the fronts dragging? Anyone
>> BTDT?
>> >
>> > I am fed up with having to look at something on this car every other
>> > weekend!! I'd like to DRIVE the car for a change!!
>> > No, I won't trade it for anything else--yet.
>> >
>> > Thanks for your input.
>> >
>> > Jim Koper
>> > 92 red/black
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