[Shotimes] BRAKE PROBLEMS (sorta long, but an easy read!)

[Paul Nimz]

I've too had pin problems.  I take them out once a year and regrease them.
Used some anti-seize grease this time.

Paul Nimz
'97 TR
'93 EG mtx


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Leigh Smith" <leighsm@comcast.net>
To: <jkoper@frankgates.com>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2004 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] BRAKE PROBLEMS (sorta long, but an easy read!)


> Fronts:
> Q: Are the pads wearing / grabbing evenly, or just one side?
> One side would lead me to suspect pin issues.
> My 89 SHO had original calipers & pins with 262 miles. But pin corrosion
(in
> NJ) caused me to find the pins needed cleaning more frequently than pad
> changes, every 20-40k mi vs 60-80k for good $100 pads.
> I found I had to emery cloth the pins, and grease them with silicone
grease,
> and replace the rubber seals occassionally. The pins should slide easily
> under light finger pressure. The bracket holes I had to wirebrush /
> sandpaper to clean. The pins should slide easily under light finger
> pressure. I had one pin rust solid & lock-up in the bracket once.  Wear
> clearances weren't the issue, it was rust build-up.
>
> You can also test the front pistons for corrosion, open the bleeder valve,
> and you should be able to move the piston with figer pressure, no
sticking.
> BTW the rear is different here. The rubber seal itself is all the pressure
> there is that causes the piston to retract slightly from the rotor.
>
> Rears: Make sure you check for restricted rear flex hoses. Open the
bleeder
> valve on a caliper and see if the e-brake works better. That brake that
> won't grab should improve.
>
> Lee
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Jim Koper" <jkoper@frankgates.com>
> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 5:56 PM
> Subject: [Shotimes] BRAKE PROBLEMS (sorta long, but an easy read!)
>
>
> > Hello all,
> >
> > I have a 92 SHO with 141,000 miles, several BRAKE-RELATED ISSUES.
> >
> > FRONTS: both are dragging. I already replaced the flex hoses and
calipers
> > about 1.5 to 2 years ago (Wagner rebuilts). Why do they go bad (stick)
so
> > soon? Any remedies I am missing? I bleed the brakes every year in
> > preparation for the convention, so old brake fluid would not be a factor
> in
> > the 'return' of the brakes. MPG and performance are obviously down--hate
> > running the car like this, as the engine is working much harder than it
> > needs to. I cleaned and regreased the fronts, but it didn't make a
> > noticeable difference.
> >
> > If the pins have even wear marks (a series of shinier rings around the
> pin),
> > do they need replacing or just cleaned and lubed?
> >
> >
> > REARS: After about a year of NOT using the e-brake, I applied it last
> week.
> > (I know the e-brake adjusts the rear pads as they wear, but I didn't
want
> it
> > freezing up in the winter.) Big mistake. I smelled burnt pads within a
few
> > miles.  I pulled the wheels to check it out.
> >
> > Applying and then 'releasing' the e-brake causes the RR caliper to 'lock
> up'
> > (the return spring on the caliper doesn't return caliper to the 'e-brake
> > off' position. I use a pry bar to return the lever to its natural
> position.
> > Sound familiar?
> >
> > The LR e-brake cable does pull the caliper lever--however, I can still
> spin
> > the rotor freely!! How would THAT happen? The pads and rotor seem to be
> > wearing, so the hydraulic portion of this work OK.
> >
> > BTW, I replaced BOTH rear cables 3 years ago. Moisture seems to get in
at
> > (1) the end near the caliper and (2) where that clear plastic sheathing
> > surrounds the coiled cable (middle of the entire cable, near the rear
> > control arms).
> >
> > Any way to recondition the e-brake cables? They are not that old! I've
> tried
> > PB blaster, a bit of heat, silicone spray, lithium grease on the cables.
> >
> > Have any of you found the front release cable (connects to the interior
> > release handle) to be faulty?
> >
> > Are the return springs on the rear calipers too weak/bad design and has
> > anyone modified them? It seems if they were of a higher tension that
they
> > could keep the e-brake cable functional.
> >
> > What do you guys and ladies do to fix such problems (or better yet,
> prevent
> > them from happening in the first place?
> >
> > Is the only real solution to replace all four calipers? The rears were
> > replaced 3.5 years ago (new pins and boots last year).
> >
> > Would replacing the MASTER CYLINDER solve the fronts dragging? Anyone
> BTDT?
> >
> > I am fed up with having to look at something on this car every other
> > weekend!! I'd like to DRIVE the car for a change!!
> > No, I won't trade it for anything else--yet.
> >
> > Thanks for your input.
> >
> > Jim Koper
> > 92 red/black
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