[Shotimes] Front Strut R&R

[Paul Nimz]

BTDT Carl.  Stick a screwdriver in there to wedge against the spinning nut. 
Break the bolt if you have to.

Paul Nimz
'97 TR
'93 EG mtx

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 12:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Front Strut R&R


> Let me explain this issue further.  The front subframe nuts have tabs that
> are welded to the subframe itself, on the inside.  This keeps the nut from
> spinning when you torque the bolt down or when you have to undo the bolt.
> As the cars start to rust, those tabs will break under stress.  So now you
> have a free spinning nut inside the subframe member, and there is no easy
> way to get a bite on that nut to hold it still and unscrew the bolt.  This
> really really really sucks.  Actually it is beyond "sucks" when it
> happens.
>
> Oh yeah, did I remember to say "really"?
> -- 
> Cheers,
> Carl Prochilo
> 92 Ultra Red Crimson
>
> On Thu, November 4, 2004 12:04 pm, Paul Nimz said:
>> On my '93 when I put in the solid subframe bushings I had these problems
>> and
>> put in the new nuts and bolts.  Seems to me a good reason to replace them
>> as
>> after this is done you can run the subframe bushing bolt up and down with
>> ease.
>>
>> Paul Nimz
>> '97 TR
>> '93 EG mtx
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
>> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 10:19 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Front Strut R&R
>>
>>
>>> Yes, that would have the same basic effect.  The only negative about
>>> that
>>> on older SHOs is that rust will cause the subframe retaining nut tabs to
>>> fail.  The end result is that the nut will spin freely and cause you a
>>> myriad of new headaches.  BTDT.
>>> --
>>> Cheers,
>>> Carl Prochilo
>>> 92 Ultra Red Crimson
>>>
>>> On Thu, November 4, 2004 10:24 am, Paul Nimz said:
>>>> On my '97 I will loosen the subframe bushings on the side I am working
>>>> on
>>>> and drop the subframe another inch or so.  The strut will easily slide
>>>> out
>>>> of the knuckle then.
>>>>
>>>> Paul Nimz
>>>> '97 TR
>>>> '93 EG mtx
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
>>>> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>>>> Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 6:32 AM
>>>> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Front Strut R&R
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> What I told Robert was that the real trick to get that last bit of
>>>>> clearance was to remove the tension strut bushing.  That bugger will
>>>>> keep
>>>>> the knuckle from moving, even with the nut removed.  Since the bushing
>>>>> is
>>>>> pressed in, it takes a good bit of time to remove it without damaging
>>>>> it.
>>>>> Once the bushing was out, there was enough play to drop the knuckle
>>>>> enough
>>>>> to get the strut out.
>>>>>
>>>>> BTW, this in no way follows the official service manual procedure for
>>>>> this
>>>>> job...
>>>>> --
>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>> Carl Prochilo
>>>>> 92 Ultra Red Crimson
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thu, November 4, 2004 2:12 am, George Fourchy said:
>>>>>> On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 20:45:08 -0500, ROBERT SCHIRMER wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I swear my problem must have been
>>>>>>>getting the steering knuckle bolt loose enough, so that thde strut
>>>>>>> could
>>>>>>> slide
>>>>>>>off???
>>>>>>
>>>>>> No...I think it was getting the tension strut bushing loose enough so
>>>>>> that
>>>>>> you could
>>>>>> slide the whole thing back off of it and give yourself some more
>>>>>> downward
>>>>>> movement
>>>>>> on the knuckle.  Once it slides a bit, it will slide all the way, as
>>>>>> long
>>>>>> as rust
>>>>>> hasn't destroyed the bottom of the strut.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> George
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