[Shotimes] Re: upgrading bulbs in headlights

[Kevin & Cheryl Airth]

Mark:
 I have also upgraded the headlights. I replaced both head lamp housings
with new ones and totally sealed them with clear RTV before installing. My
old housings were yellow but looking closely I think that dirt and
condensation on the inside played a big role in cutting down what light
output I had! I had some concern about the heat buildup and that may
contribute to shortened bulb life. The plastic housings take the heat just
fine. I have driven as long as 10 hours with the headlights on. I also found
the aftermarket housings seem to not yellow as bad? Mine are from Ford and
after 5 years look just as clear as when new. I added an after market relay
harness. The harness came with 30 amp relays and that should be plenty big
enough. I found a good mounting spot for the relays under the black plastic
shield on top of the radiator.  Pretty much right next to the Relay control
box (CCRM or IRCM). I used a threaded nut insert in the sheet metal and the
relays had a metal tab that I bent into the shape I needed. Plus this gives
a nice short wire from the alternator to the relay. That's where I pickup
the 12 volt supply for the harness. This is important because this section
of wire is unprotected against a short. Anyone fuse the input to the relays?
The wire harness I hid in the radiator support. The harness just plugs into
the existing headlight plug, so your headlight switch now only switches
between Hi/Lo beams with very little current. I did not like the drivers
side plug connection because it's too cramped. So I rewired the harness to
use the passenger headlight plug instead. The factory drivers side plug just
hangs unused. I run the 100/110 watt bulbs. I have had to replace them
several times and lately have used JC Whitney. They have a very large
selection of bulbs. They also replaced one that burned out with no
questions. Some of the no name bulbs seem to have a weird light pattern too.
Maybe sticking with a name brand would be best for this item?
 Before I would change the ground point I would use a voltmeter to see if
it's needed. I checked the voltage at the head light plug after installing
the harness and it was within 1/10 of a volt of the battery reading. That
tells me the grounds are fine.
 I did fall down on getting them aimed better and will try some of the
suggestions posted here. I have much improved lighting but this is one area
where technology has just passed our SHO's by do to time. I really liked
Herman Anker's headlight page but it seemed like a BUNCH of work!
.
.



> I wouldn't necessarily single out the SHO, generically, but my own one
could
> sure use this upgrade.  I thought it was just my advancing age.
Polishing
> plexi has no fears for me since I've polished many a cycle fairing
windscreen
> and helmet faceshield.  Nor does this straightforward  upgrade exceed my
> electrical skills, but some specific details from those  who've BTDT would
be great!
>
> It seems like the pros are saying don't just hook the grounds to sheet
metal
> if you have a better choice.  Makes perfect sense to me.  They  suggest
(in
> general) alternator housing or batt neg term.  Both  seem messy in terms
of
> running yet more wiring to those  particular places.  Where else would be
a good
> and secure  place in the front of a GenII?
>
> Also where in the GenII engine bay is the connector for the hi/lo wires
that
> come out of the headlight switch?  That kind of stuff translates  poorly
from
> the manual to reality unless they have a clear pix at the right  distance
and
> angle  ;-)
>
> Any good spots for mounting the relays?
>
> TIA
> Mark LaBarre
> 94 atx 125k
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