[Shotimes] Q on installing pistons

[John Stout]

did you have the block bored ?? did the shop have the pistons ?? if it wasn't tight then you would get lost compression, every engine we ever built in 30+ years of running a garage and racing, you had to tap them in.  My uncle always had the rods side clearanced, he wanted new oil on the bearings every rev.

Ian Fisher <dataflash@yahoo.com> wrote:I installed a piston and rod today. How easily should
the piston "fall" into the bore as it leaves the ring
compressor? And if it makes some noises, that's ok,
right? (I think it was the compressor buckling since
it's just a thin aluminum band)

I must have taken the piston out of the compressor
about 20 times to see if I had broken any rings or
shifted them too much. I am just overly paranoid.

Rings and bore were oiled so that's not a problem. I
had to use the wooden handle of a rubber mallet to
heavily tap the piston down the bore. I assume that's
ok?

Now that it's on the crank, I can rotate the crank and
everything moves easily, nothing seems caught up on
anything. I just don't know how it should "feel" to
install a piston properly. I don't want to break a
ring and not find out until the engine is running in
the car.

Oh-the three piece oil ring on the bottom-Is it ok if
the gaps are closer than 90 degrees apart for all 3
pieces? They are more like 15 degrees apart but I
can't seem to move them easily. The other two rings
are spaced evenly with regard to their ring gaps so
that shouldn't be a problem

thanks
Ian
blue 3.2, V1, 5 to go



Once the piston was in the bore and it was 



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John Stout
90 Titanium (Cone Killer) Back to everyday duty
97 SF (Killed in the Line of Duty) WELDED Headed South

COMING SOON ? (maybe next year)
People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf.  Orwell












		
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