[Shotimes] Replacing the headliner

[Kevin & Cheryl Airth]

I have redone mine too. You got some good tips. Don't remove the seats just
recline the passenger side. It sure helps to have a extra set of hands when
pulling it in and out of the car. Try not to bend it so far that you get a
kink. It is a bit of a puzzle working the head liner in and out of the
passenger door opening! Once it's inside, raise the passenger seat and the
heat rests will kind of balance it. I spent about $60 for material and GOOD
spray glue. The factory headliners fall apart mainly from heat failure of
the glue holding the cheap headliner material on. I found that the more the
headliner is decayed the easier the material and thin foam come off. I did
not find that steam was helpful. My biggest problem was small areas where
the factory headliner was still glued pretty good. These areas took small
chucks out of the molded fiberglass backing. I also use better material and
recommend getting the 3/8" foam backed headliner material rather than just
the material with no backing. Should run you about $15-$18/yard. Get 3 yards
and you will have a bit left over.

 I use 3m spray glue #08088. Not the super duty #08090. Get 2 cans. You can
find this in most Wal-Mart's and a bunch of auto parts stores. Read and
follow the directions on the can! If you don't use this brand make double
sure your glue is heat resistant. Don't use the hobby type spay adhesives!
3M makes some of these and they will fail quickly in the wrong application.
I also wrapped the edges of the headliner by at least a inch or so around
the fiberglass pad. Gives the front and rear sections against the front and
back glass a more finished look. The factory cuts the material even with the
backing board. I center the material on the backing board and then fold it
back on itself in half. I apply the glue to both the backing board and the
material. Again another set of hands is a big help when laying the material
out after being glued. I start in the middle and let the material slowly
drape down and touch the backing board. You need to watch closely because
you can't really pull it up and try again. You need to press the material
with no wrinkles into all the molded features of the backing board. Let it
set up for a while then pull the unglued half back on itself and repeat the
above procedure.

 So I did get some lumpiness because of the chunks coming out of the molded
fiberglass pad. Could not figure a good invisible way to fill them? It is
visible but not noticeable like my old shredded headliner! The car is a good
bit quieter with the foam backed material. I also added some more sound pads
when the roof was exposed.
.
.



> 'Am in process of doing mine at the moment. Total cost at the local
> upholstery shop was $50. Total re-installation time in my garage should be
> one to two hours.
>
> Fred
> 89 GEN 1 -- Original Owner
>

> Removing the seats is unnecessary. Just recline the
> front ones down as far as possible and remove the
> headlight from the passenger from door. Reinstall the
> front way. (no steering wheel on that side).
>
> Ian

>
> > On Mon,  8 Aug 2005 17:10:30 -0400,
> > brogshan@email.unc.edu wrote:
> >
> > >I need to replace the headliner of my '94 SHO.  I'm
> > thinking of try to do it
> > >myself, if anybody has done this do you have any
> > tips?  Thanks.