[Shotimes] P/S Pump Replacement and Pump Rebuild- Part 1

[Kevin & Cheryl Airth]

I had to break this into 2 pieces to post it.
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 My 1993 ATX started making a pretty loud whine. It turned out to be the P/S
pump. I got a used one pronto from Mr. Joe VO and all is fine now.
 I was warned that this was one of the SHO's worst jobs but it turned out to
only be a little bit difficult! I did it a bit different than the Helm
manual recommends. I did not take off the passenger side tire and I did not
jack up the engine and remove the rear motor mount. The pump is held on with
4 12mm bolts. The 3 on the front are easy to get at but the back one is
where the problems are. If you remove the intake manifold support on the
rear passenger side of the manifold. You can then get one of those ratchet
box end wrenches on the back bolt. It's tight and you can't swing the wrench
very far but it's enough. I don't think you could do it on a MTX because the
engine is several inches closer to the firewall.
 In order here is how I got it done:

1. Remove the battery and battery tray.
2. Remove the serpentine belt and the P/S pulley itself.
3. Remove the black plastic firewall cover so you can see a little bit
better what your doing.
4. Unplug and pull back both fuel lines. They come apart at the push lock
connection. It's tight but my release tool fit.
5. Unplug the cam senor plug and tie back out of the way.
6. Remove the remote P/S fluid reservoir and the hoses going from it to the
pump. Tie back the hose that comes from the cooler so P/S fluid does not run
out and make a bigger mess. I plugged the hose end with a bit of paper
towel.
7. Remove the bottom bolt on the rear manifold support. Remove the clamp
attached to this bolt that holds one of the P/S hoses. The PCM wire harness
is in the way but I worked around it. You could remove the PCM plug and pull
the harness out of the way for more room if needed.
8. The pressure hose attached to the pump needs to be removed. I could NOT
get the connection apart. So I used a 24mm open end wrench and unscrewed the
fitting from the pump body. This works because the fitting itself allows the
incoming steel tube to rotate freely. The fitting has a spring loaded valve
behind it and is O-ringed sealed. This was MUCH easier than fighting the
tubing fitting and the pump fitting together. Tie this back out of the way.
9. Finally remove the front 3 bolts and that horrible back bolt holding the
pump to the bracket. Remove the pump and reinstall the good pump. Of course
the back bolt is the longest of the 4 so make sure you get it back in the
correct spot! Don't over tighten as the Helm book calls for a 15-25 ft-lb
torque setting. I used lock tight on the back bolt and just made it snug. No
way was a torque wrench going to fit in there!
10. Reverse the above steps to get everything back in place.