[Shotimes] P/S Pump Replacement and Pump Rebuild-Part 2

[Jim & Debbie Leyden]

I hope that (first) someone takes over the SHOtimes FAQ, corrects the errors
on it and keeps it current.

Jim

Dreaming of Utopia


-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Mucher
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 9:19 PM
To: 'Kevin & Cheryl Airth'; 'SHO Times'
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] P/S Pump Replacement and Pump Rebuild-Part 2

Kevin  - an excellent write up!

I hope you (or someone) see that it gets put in the SHOtimes FAQ.

Thanks,

Mark
 

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kevin & Cheryl Airth
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 8:09 PM
To: SHO Times
Subject: [Shotimes] P/S Pump Replacement and Pump Rebuild-Part 2

This is the second part.
.
.

After the repair I inspected the pump and I think most of the time the only
problem is the front bearing and seal. The pump is a gear rotor type and
unless trash is run through the pump it should be OK.

To rebuild your pump:
 1. Remove the 4 bolts on the back side of the pump housing evenly. The
bolts are under spring pressure but the spring is released before they
unscrew all the way, so nothing will pop off at you!
2. Split the pump housing and set aside the portion containing the gear
rotor assembly. The front half will have the pump shaft sticking out.
3. Remove the snap ring on the front of the pump housing. Now use a brass
hammer or brass punch and tap the shaft out the front of the housing from
the rear. Depending on how much corrosion is on the pump body it should come
out with only a few taps.
4. You now will have the shaft with the bearing pressed on it. Don't worry
about the position of the bearing on the shaft. The shaft has a shoulder
that the bearing is pressed all the way on to and stops it.
5. After removing the shaft you can now see the oil seal that is BEHIND the
bearing in the housing. Just pop it out with a screw driver and don't
scratch the pump body while your doing it!
6. The sealed bearing is a common one that I got for $6. Brand was ORS Part#
ADI62032RS. Size is 12mm thick X 17mm ID X 40 mm OD. There are others so
bring your old one down to make sure it matches up. This was a different
brand and part number from the stock one I had. The stock one was marked NTN
6203LB. The seal is also very common and cost $4. It's 20mm ID X 36mm OD X
7mm thick.
7. Install the seal into the housing using the flat side of a socket. The
bearing is installed on the shaft using a deep socket and a bench vise.
Press on the inner metal section of the bearing and NOT the outer metal
ring!
8. Clean the pump housing where the OD of the bearing rides and the snap
ring groove. Then using a brass hammer or punch tap the shaft and bearing
back in place until it stops. Just to be safe I used a large socket and
pressed it back into the housing. It slide in pretty easy after I cleaned
the housing of the rust and junk. You should now be able to reinstall the
snap ring.
9. Align the rear of the housing to the front and wiggle it together.
Install the 4 bolts holding the 2 halves of the housing together.
 You should now have a quiet and freely rotating P/S pump. If I knew it was
this easy I would just have rebuilt my pump instead of buying a used one in
unknown condition! Total cost to rebuild it was $10.50. Pretty cheap!! I now
have a great spare! Probably will never need it!!
 The auto parts store sell the rebuilt pump for about $130 plus your old
core. The ATX and MTX use the same pump for all  years of 1989-1995.
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