[Shotimes] SHO P/S Pump Replacement and Pump Rebuild

[Kevin & Cheryl Airth]

 My 1993 ATX started making a pretty loud whine. It turned out to be the P/S
pump. I got a used one pronto from Mr. Joe VO and all is fine now.
 I was warned that this was one of the SHO's worst jobs but it turned out to
only be a little bit difficult! I did it a bit different than the Helm
manual recommends. I did not take off the passenger side tire and I did not
jack up the engine and remove the rear motor mount. The pump is held on with
4 12mm bolts. The 3 on the front are easy to get at but the back one is
where the problems are. If you remove the intake manifold support on the
rear passenger side of the manifold. You can then get one of those ratchet
box end wrenches on the back bolt. It's tight and you can't swing the wrench
very far but it's enough. I don't think you could do it on a MTX because the
engine is several inches closer to the firewall.
 In order here is how I got it done:

1. Remove the battery and battery tray.
2. Remove the serpentine belt and the P/S pulley itself.
3. Remove the black plastic firewall cover so you can see a little bit
better what your doing.
4. Unplug and pull back both fuel lines. They come apart at the push lock
connection. It's tight but my release tool fit.
5. Unplug the cam senor plug and tie back out of the way.
6. Remove the remote P/S fluid reservoir and the hoses going from it to the
pump. Tie back the hose that comes from the cooler so P/S fluid does not run
out and make a bigger mess. I plugged the hose end with a bit of paper
towel.
7. Remove the bottom bolt on the rear manifold support. Remove the clamp
attached to this bolt that holds one of the P/S hoses. The PCM wire harness
is in the way but I worked around it. You could remove the PCM plug and pull
the harness out of the way for more room if needed.
8. The pressure hose attached to the pump needs to be removed. I could NOT
get the connection apart. So I used a 24mm open end wrench and unscrewed the
fitting from the pump body. This works because the fitting itself allows the
incoming steel tube to rotate freely. The fitting has a spring loaded valve
behind it and is O-ringed sealed. This was MUCH easier than fighting the
tubing fitting and the pump fitting together. Tie this back out of the way.
9. Finally remove the front 3 bolts and that horrible back bolt holding the
pump to the bracket. Remove the pump and reinstall the good pump. Of course
the back bolt is the longest of the 4 so make sure you get it back in the
correct spot! Don't over tighten as the Helm book calls for a 15-25 ft-lb
torque setting. I used lock tight on the back bolt and just made it snug. No
way was a torque wrench going to fit in there!
10. Reverse the above steps to get everything back in place.

 After the repair I inspected the pump and I think most of the time the only
problem is the front bearing and seal. The pump is a gear rotor type and
unless trash is run through the pump it should be OK.

To rebuild your pump:
 1. Remove the 4 bolts on the back side of the pump housing evenly. The
bolts are under spring pressure but the spring is released before they
unscrew all the way, so nothing will pop off at you!
2. Split the pump housing and set aside the portion containing the gear
rotor assembly. The front half will have the pump shaft sticking out.
3. Remove the snap ring on the front of the pump housing. Now use a brass
hammer or brass punch and tap the shaft out the front of the housing from
the rear. Depending on how much corrosion is on the pump body it should come
out with only a few taps.
4. You now will have the shaft with the bearing pressed on it. Don't worry
about the position of the bearing on the shaft. The shaft has a shoulder
that the bearing is pressed all the way on to and stops it.
5. After removing the shaft you can now see the oil seal that is BEHIND the
bearing in the housing. Just pop it out with a screw driver and don't
scratch the pump body while your doing it!
6. The sealed bearing is a common one that I got for $6. Brand was ORS Part#
ADI62032RS. Size is 12mm thick X 17mm ID X 40 mm OD. There are others so
bring your old one down to make sure it matches up. This was a different
brand and part number from the stock one I had. The stock one was marked NTN
6203LB. The seal is also very common and cost $4. It's 20mm ID X 36mm OD X
7mm thick.
7. Install the seal into the housing using the flat side of a socket. The
bearing is installed on the shaft using a deep socket and a bench vise.
Press on the inner metal section of the bearing and NOT the outer metal
ring!
8. Clean the pump housing where the OD of the bearing rides and the snap
ring groove. Then using a brass hammer or punch tap the shaft and bearing
back in place until it stops. Just to be safe I used a large socket and
pressed it back into the housing. It slide in pretty easy after I cleaned
the housing of the rust and junk. You should now be able to reinstall the
snap ring.
9. Align the rear of the housing to the front and wiggle it together.
Install the 4 bolts holding the 2 halves of the housing together.
 You should now have a quiet and freely rotating P/S pump. If I knew it was
this easy I would just have rebuilt my pump instead of buying a used one in
unknown condition! Total cost to rebuild it was $10.50. Pretty cheap!! I now
have a great spare! Probably will never need it!!
 The auto parts store sell the rebuilt pump for about $130 plus your old
core. The ATX and MTX use the same pump for all  years of 1989-1995.
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