[Shotimes] struts for 93?

[Zach Leahy]

Yeah, 

Dave it right, heat is your friend, especially in the oxy-acetelene
variety.  I have access to one, and also a 2 post lift in a heated
shop.  It really makes working on cars a lot more enjoyable.  Now, I
need a motorcycle lift cause my back is sore from bending over.

the rears are inherently a pain in the rear (pun intended) becasue
access is lousy as well as th epinch bolts.  I also have 2 grade 8
thru bolts on mine because I broke 1.  That was before I started
heating them up.  After that, no more worries.  You have to take out
the package tray and the seatbelt retainers to get to the little 10mm
nuts on the top of the struts in the rear.  You can wiggle your hand
in through the trunk if you are patient enough, but it takes less time
to pull the package tray out.

The front's are a breeze, the rears are generally more difficult. 
Having a nice set of custom control arms, you can just pop them off
for some extra maueverability too and take the strut and hub assy out
as one piece.  not a bad choice.  I have done this on the front too at
a u-pull-it yard casue I was sick of sitting on the ground.  I then
threw the units on the smashed trunklid and removed the struts.

If you are turning the pinch bolt, and you think it might break....  it will.

Z


On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 20:38:01 -0500, Dave <showerks@comcast.net> wrote:
> You guys have to stop breaking stuff. So far I've never broken a pinch
> bolt then again I use Oxy aceltene and get them glowing pretty good. I
> just usually replace both with the Monroe AK50 and AK52 kits that can be
> had locally. Hell I'm 24 for 24 on pinch bolts and 28 for 28 on exhaust
> manifold studs.
> Dave
> 
> Ron Porter wrote:
> 
> >Yes. The front pinch bolts have a better chance of coming out in one piece
> >(they are larger), but the rears are a PITA. I have had better luck with MAP
> >gas (hotter than propane). Getting the housing HOT, then using an impact
> >wrench, produced the best results.
> >
> >Although I haven't done the job without breaking at least one pinch bolt.
> >After then chewing up the threads in the knuckle drilling out the remains of
> >the bolt, I replace it with a Grade 8 bolt with a Grade 8 nut & washer,
> >which makes the job easier the next time!!
> >
> >Ron Porter
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> >On Behalf Of Dave
> >Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 5:25 PM
> >To: Barry@kingcon.com
> >Cc: shotimes@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Re: [Shotimes] struts for 93?
> >
> >Last 93 we had in the shop that we did suspension on ran 75 bucks a
> >corner and that was with his struts and springs. As for DIY it's a
> >pretty easy job even on rust belt cars if you have the proper tools.
> >good heavy breaker bar and a hot wrench will take out the pinch bolts.
> >Dave
> >
> >Barry Hayes wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>It cost me $60.00 in labor to replace one front spring, which is
> >>basically the same job as replacing a strut. The 2 big pains are getting
> >>
> >>the bottom pinch bolt loose without breaking it, and then the need for a
> >>
> >>spring compressor. It should be a DIY job, but then again I should be
> >>rich too. Price around. Most shops charge extra if you bring your own
> >>parts.
> >>Barry Hayes
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--
> >>"It's all in the mind ya know"- George Harrison
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