[Shotimes] Question About Swapping Cams

[Ian Fisher]

I believe those caps are matched to the heads (or will
be after 50K + of break in). I would use the same
exact cap in the same exact orientation it was
removed.

Frank, why not use the 3.0 heads? It sounds like you
have both of them off of the motor?

Ian

--- Zach Leahy <leahyz@gmail.com> wrote:

> Frank,
> 
> you're fairly right on.
> 
> just take the cams out of the 3.0 head and put them
> in the 3.2l head.
> I would say use the 3.2l caps if they are in good
> condition.  I would
> sy it is better to have them matched with the ones
> on the head so
> there are no ridgge lines from any differennt wear
> patterns or such.
> Potentially you could have a small ridge where the
> cap and the head
> meet which would allow for huge amounts of wear.  I
> would say you are
> better going with the 3.2 caps ont he 3.2 heads.
> 
> Put a set of lsh caps and shims in it from either
> head, if you are
> going to re-shim it it doesn'e really matter.  If
> you were not going
> to reshim it, I would hit you with a ball bat for
> being lazy :).
> 
> As far as shimming it goes, I have done this w/o the
> tools myself.  It
> can be done, and it can net the same results.  It's
> easiest w/o the
> head on the car, but probably more accurate with it
> on.  What I did
> was to put everything together and measure all the
> clearances and
> record them.  I then took the cams back out and
> swapped shims around
> to adjust the clearances.  Then at the end I put the
> cams back in and
> re measured.  It took about 2 iterations to get them
> perfectly right,
> and an afternoon of playing around with them.  So
> yes you can shim
> them out without the tools.
> 
> As far as timing goes (and this is all from memory),
> if you look at
> the timing chains there are 2 "white" links on them.
>  What I mean
> there is that by this time and all the oil that is
> on them, you will
> find 2 very slightly different looking links onthe
> chain.  it's hard
> to find them, but you will eventually.  Those links
> will line up with
> the dots on the chain sprockets.  I think when they
> are all assembled,
> the dots and links are horizontally opposed in
> (given the head plane
> is horizontal, which it isn'r unless it is on the
> floor).  If you are
> looking from the driver's side, the 9, and 3
> positions on the clock
> face.  You will want to double check this on against
> the book, but I
> am pretty sure that's right.  While you are shimming
> them, the
> alignment of the cams does not matter much, it is
> non-interference so
> you won't have to worry about hitting a piston with
> a valve. But a
> good rule of thumb is that if it is taking an
> incredible amount of
> force to do something, you are probably doing
> something wrong and
> about to break any of a number of things, including
> a wrench.  (Been
> there done that, I have a wrench with a 15 degree
> bend in it... and I
> did it without a cheater bar..  at 6'2" and 275#s
> it's easier than you
> think..)
> 
> Anyway, lemme know if you have any questions.
> 
> Z
> 
> 
> On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 01:03:51 -0500, Frank SHOrage
> Costa
> <SHOrage@brothersofmetal.org> wrote:
> > If i were to swap the cams right now from the
> still intact 3.0 head to the
> > dismantled 3.2 head.....
> > 
> > Can i just...
> > 
> > Unbolt the cam caps, move shims over to the new
> head in proper sequence...and
> > then just place the cam over the shims and then
> cap em?
> > 
> > And if i can, how do i know which way to have the
> cams facing as in timing...
> > 
> > For some reason i am happy this motor is not
> interference but i have to make
> > sure with everyone on the list....
> > 
> > Then when all is said and done Adjust the
> valves...
> > 
> > Bottom line is,  i got parts in the shed but not
> valve adjustment
> > tools....which means i cant remove the shims from
> the old head before removing
> > the cam and vice versa....
> > 
> > For now, i wanna get as much done as i can.....
> > 
> > Frank Costa and the "Silver Bullet" soon to be a
> 3.2
> > 
> > MODS-
> > SHOrt shifter
> > 89 Titanium Grey
> > Dynomax Catback With Super Turbo Mufflers
> > Monroe Sensatrack Struts
> > Moog Cargo Coils All Around
> > Updated Front Swaybar Endlinks
> > Polyurethane Rear Swaybar Endlinks
> > Solid Delrin Subframe Bushings
> > Directional Italian SLicers
> > Bridgestone HP50 Tires All Around
> > Subframe Connectors
> > 
> > http://www.brothersofmetal.org/frank.html
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