[Shotimes] Re: Clutch

[Dave]

I've got nothing against the ceramic TOB but for the 150.00 for the 
bearing VS 20.00 for the non coated. well that 130.00 I saved went into 
other parts or mods for the 15 year old beast. And anyone who's seen the 
way I drive ( Like I stole it) If this 20.00 bearing has held up for me 
so far then I think I'm doing alright. Like I said in about 3 weeks I'll 
be doing the 3.2 swap so I'll see how it looks.
Dave

Ron Porter wrote:

>And I got the tip on the cheap Advance Auto Rev B TOB from Mark. As I
>understand, it is the unit that is the basis for Josh's ceramic TOB.
>
>Frankly, for a stock-type clutch o an n/a car, especially one that is
>raced/tracked and may see a clutch job more frequently than the average SHO,
>$20 (well, it was actually $15 for the TOB and $7 shipping) for the Advance
>TOB is a hell of a deal.
>
>Ron Porter
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Dave
>Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 1:56 PM
>To: Ian Fisher
>Cc: Edward Mazurek; SHOTimes
>Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Re: Clutch
>
>Well my new list for clutch replacement is way different then whats out 
>there.
>Of course the whole clutch set up a quality TOB Rear main and carrier 
>gasket. subframe bushings lower control arms and other other wear items 
>that the subframe may have to come out again for. Bushings and what not. 
>And as long as the Y pipe and subframe are dropped and out well the Oil 
>pan is right there and the insurance of 50.00 worth of bearing and 
>another hour tacked on your time is well worth it Plus you get to to put 
>new pan seals in at the same time. Porter steered me to that TOB for 20 
>bucks from Advance auto and after 20K it's holding up pretty well I 
>guess in about 3 weeks I'll know for sure when the 3.0 comes out for the 
>3.2. The above is just MY list not a must do but while the subframe is 
>out it's worth the extra cost to replace the wear items in it. After I 
>did my clutch I had to go back in and do the rod bearings and now the 
>LCA's need replacement And if your really anal then is the time to clean 
>the subframe up and have it rhino coated or painted.
>Dave
>
>Ian Fisher wrote:
>
>  
>
>>I would get the rear main seal, the rear main seal
>>carrier gasket, ceramic TOB, resurface or replace
>>flywheel. Josh (SHOnut) also sells ceramic alumna
>>coated? throw out bearing bushings. I just ordered a
>>set for my clutch/engine swap. They may be worth
>>looking into as well.
>>
>>You may want to replace the subframe bushings while
>>you are doing the clutch. Either factory rubber, gen3
>>bushings or aluminum.
>>
>>That's all I can think of for now..If you want to get
>>all fancy pants, you could get a high flow Y pipe and
>>an aluminum flywheel. :) Once the mod itch starts, it
>>doesn't stop so I don't recommend it. :(
>>
>>Ian
>>--- Edward Mazurek <emazurek@cisco.com> wrote:
>> 
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Hi,
>>>
>>>My 95 also needs a clutch. I'll get the ceramic TOB
>>>but what about
>>>a reccomendation for the other parts? My 95 is
>>>stock. How abut the
>>>rear main seal and tranny input seal? Are those
>>>normally
>>>replaced? Any other parts normally replaced?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Ed Mazurek
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>Shotimes mailing list
>>>Shotimes@autox.team.net
>>>http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>>>
>>>   
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>		
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>
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