[Shotimes] Re: Clutch

[Ian Fisher]

They are actually $95. I guess your point is still
valid though. I chose to get the ceramic because I
don't want to do the clutch again any time soon. If I
need to pay $95 more to save myself the down time,
I'll gladly do it. If that $95 saves me from
prematurely trashing the pressure plate on my $400
clutch I'll be happy. I'm not knocking your reasoning
though.

Ian
--- Dave <showerks@comcast.net> wrote:

> I've got nothing against the ceramic TOB but for the
> 150.00 for the 
> bearing VS 20.00 for the non coated. well that
> 130.00 I saved went into 
> other parts or mods for the 15 year old beast. And
> anyone who's seen the 
> way I drive ( Like I stole it) If this 20.00 bearing
> has held up for me 
> so far then I think I'm doing alright. Like I said
> in about 3 weeks I'll 
> be doing the 3.2 swap so I'll see how it looks.
> Dave
> 
> Ron Porter wrote:
> 
> >And I got the tip on the cheap Advance Auto Rev B
> TOB from Mark. As I
> >understand, it is the unit that is the basis for
> Josh's ceramic TOB.
> >
> >Frankly, for a stock-type clutch o an n/a car,
> especially one that is
> >raced/tracked and may see a clutch job more
> frequently than the average SHO,
> >$20 (well, it was actually $15 for the TOB and $7
> shipping) for the Advance
> >TOB is a hell of a deal.
> >
> >Ron Porter
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> >On Behalf Of Dave
> >Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 1:56 PM
> >To: Ian Fisher
> >Cc: Edward Mazurek; SHOTimes
> >Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Re: Clutch
> >
> >Well my new list for clutch replacement is way
> different then whats out 
> >there.
> >Of course the whole clutch set up a quality TOB
> Rear main and carrier 
> >gasket. subframe bushings lower control arms and
> other other wear items 
> >that the subframe may have to come out again for.
> Bushings and what not. 
> >And as long as the Y pipe and subframe are dropped
> and out well the Oil 
> >pan is right there and the insurance of 50.00 worth
> of bearing and 
> >another hour tacked on your time is well worth it
> Plus you get to to put 
> >new pan seals in at the same time. Porter steered
> me to that TOB for 20 
> >bucks from Advance auto and after 20K it's holding
> up pretty well I 
> >guess in about 3 weeks I'll know for sure when the
> 3.0 comes out for the 
> >3.2. The above is just MY list not a must do but
> while the subframe is 
> >out it's worth the extra cost to replace the wear
> items in it. After I 
> >did my clutch I had to go back in and do the rod
> bearings and now the 
> >LCA's need replacement And if your really anal then
> is the time to clean 
> >the subframe up and have it rhino coated or
> painted.
> >Dave
> >
> >Ian Fisher wrote:
> >
> >  
> >
> >>I would get the rear main seal, the rear main seal
> >>carrier gasket, ceramic TOB, resurface or replace
> >>flywheel. Josh (SHOnut) also sells ceramic alumna
> >>coated? throw out bearing bushings. I just ordered
> a
> >>set for my clutch/engine swap. They may be worth
> >>looking into as well.
> >>
> >>You may want to replace the subframe bushings
> while
> >>you are doing the clutch. Either factory rubber,
> gen3
> >>bushings or aluminum.
> >>
> >>That's all I can think of for now..If you want to
> get
> >>all fancy pants, you could get a high flow Y pipe
> and
> >>an aluminum flywheel. :) Once the mod itch starts,
> it
> >>doesn't stop so I don't recommend it. :(
> >>
> >>Ian
> >>--- Edward Mazurek <emazurek@cisco.com> wrote:
> >> 
> >>
> >>    
> >>
> >>>Hi,
> >>>
> >>>My 95 also needs a clutch. I'll get the ceramic
> TOB
> >>>but what about
> >>>a reccomendation for the other parts? My 95 is
> >>>stock. How abut the
> >>>rear main seal and tranny input seal? Are those
> >>>normally
> >>>replaced? Any other parts normally replaced?
> >>>
> >>>Thanks,
> >>>
> >>>Ed Mazurek
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> >>>
> >>>   
> >>>
> >>>      
> >>>
> >>		
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> >>
> >
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