[Shotimes] Semi-OT: '95 SLO Charging system

[Jon Heese]

Ian,

The cobbler's children have no shoes, huh?

Actually, the primary reason why I don't use the Service Manual program 
more (at all?) is that I'm pretty much a pure Linux user and the Ford 
program is (obviously) a Windows app.  I run XP on my laptop for work 
(corporate IT), but I've never been desperate enough to install the Ford 
program on it.  To be honest, I'd be a little scared to attempt it. 
Ford engineering + Microsoft engineering = trouble... =)

Now you understand why I make no claims to support the Service Manual CDs.

Now, if someone were to make the paper manual available in PDF form, I'd 
be all over that.  It would likely be more clumsy than the nicely 
categorized program with its clever buttons and pretty interface, but 
it'd definitely be better than the 3" thick, curled up, rumpled paper 
book I keep in my trunk with the best of intentions of using when things 
go wrong on the car...

Regards,
Jon Heese

Ian Fisher wrote:
> There's a site out there with the Ford manuals on it.
> They probably have a troubleshooting section for
> alternators in the SLO manual.
> 
> www.jonheese.com/fordcds
> 
> ;)
> 
> Ian
> 
> --- Jon Heese <shotimes@jonheese.com> wrote:
> 
>> Just an update on the charging system problem in my
>> '95 Vulcan SLO:
>>
>> WARNING: DON'T TRUST AUTOZONE'S ALTERNATOR TESTER
>>
>> It incorrectly concluded that my bad alternator was
>> good and cost me a 
>> day of troubleshooting by my assuming the results
>> were accurate.
>>
>> One thing I noticed: The AZ alt tester tests the
>> alternator in 3 phases, 
>> noting on the display screen which test is running
>> at the given moment. 
>>   In order, the 3 phases are "Alternator Test" (I
>> assume this is where 
>> mine would've failed), "Rectifier Test", "Regulator
>> Test".  The first 
>> phase runs for maybe 3-5 seconds, and the remaining
>> phases run for the 
>> balance of the ~30 second test.
>>
>> Now, when I'd start the car, it would appear to
>> charge the battery 
>> properly for the first few seconds (which was right
>> when the alt tester 
>> was testing the output) and then it would quit
>> charging and the system 
>> voltage would start dropping.  It is my theory that
>> the reason why the 
>> tester cleared my alternator as "GOOD" was because
>> the "Alternator" 
>> phase of the test was too short.
>>
>> I ended up taking it down to my mechanic friend who
>> ran through the 
>> Service Manual diagnostic tests and concluded the
>> alt was bad.  I 
>> replaced it with a brand new Bosch unit ($150 after
>> my "friend" 
>> discount) and after more than a week, I've had no
>> problems with the 
>> charging system and it's measuring an even 14V while
>> running.
>>
>> Thanks again to everyone who helped out with
>> suggestions.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Jon Heese
>>
>> Jon Heese wrote:
>>  > After the last voltmeter test showed some raised
>> battery voltage 
>> while running, I decided to go out and run the car a
>> little bit to see 
>> if the battery seemed to get stronger or weaker.
>>  >
>>  > Results:  After about 2 minutes holding it around
>> 1500 RPM, the dash 
>> lights started to dim, turning on the headlights
>> noticeably dimmed 
>> everything even more, the car started running a
>> little rougher than 
>> normal, and interestingly, as I turned the headlight
>> switch from off to 
>> the parking lights, to headlights on, the tach
>> jumped a couple hundred 
>> RPM.  Not the engine, just the tach.  Also, it
>> seemed like the tach 
>> refused to drop below 1000 RPM, even when I let it
>> idle (~750 RPM).
>>  >
>>  > I'm thinking there's definitely something funny
>> going on with a 
>> ground somewhere...  Any ideas of places to check?
>>  >
>>  > Regards,
>>  > Jon Heese
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