[Shotimes] Camber, and I got nutty again

[Zach Leahy]

So I wasn't really bored, I was just intrigued by the idea of realigning the
rear of my 93 myself now that it has new struts and lower control arms.
(again).  So I sat around and built my own alignment tools.  Basically I
have build a plumb bob off of the wheel face to measure camber and hve a
piece of angle sticking past the tires on both sides to measure toe.  (I'll
take pictures sometime).  Results so far show the ability to align to about
0.25-0.5 degrees camber, and as close on toe as my tape measure is.  Both
the camber plumb bob and the crossbar to measure toe are mounted to a piece
of 1/2 MDF and then strapped tightly to the face of the wheel (centered
obviously).

Anyway, so I'm all set up now.  The toe is not set yet, I'm sure it's way
out, I am trying to get the camber close first. On a fist cut I am measuring
-0.25 degrees on the right and about -1.5 on the left.  I have not yet
cranked the control arms all the way in on that side 9but they are close),
but I may not be able to get any more positive than about -1 degree... I'll
keep you all posted.  I figured on setting up to about 1 degree negative
anyway, with maybe about 1/16th of toe in.  Thoughts?  Car will be driven on
the street and track.

BTW, so far it has cost me about 7 dollars to build my alignment tools...
Although I may eventually check them on a laser machine I have access to
(Just not all the time).  It'll be interesting to see how accurate they
are.  My biggest fear right now is that I may end up with a static thrust
angle, as I am limited on how to measure that.  Best I can do is to measure
from my cross beam to a body reference (like the strut rod mount) on both
sides and set them ths same.

I'll play around some more tonight... maybe I'll take some pictures of my
homebrew setup if anyone is interested.

Oh, and the Koni rear strust do fin in the Tokico rear housings, but you
have to do some measuring and cut a spacer to go underneath them.

Z