[Shotimes] Camber, and I got nutty again

[Leigh Smith]

Great job Zach.
After I saw Roger Penske align his Indy cars with string I know it was good
enough for me.
The thrust angle could be checked too. Find the true centerline both front &
rear on the frame or body by measuring from a suspension mounting bolt. Mark
it in ink / paint, and you'll never have to do it again, and you'll always
have your reference points to measure from. On our cars the subframe can
move all over the place!!
PS: If your toe "bars" are twice as long as your tire is, 1/16" difference
at the tape means 1/32" at the tire. Good enough for Indy.
Lee
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Zach Leahy" <leahyz@gmail.com>
To: "shotimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 7:56 AM
Subject: [Shotimes] Camber, and I got nutty again


> So I wasn't really bored, I was just intrigued by the idea of realigning
the
> rear of my 93 myself now that it has new struts and lower control arms.
> (again).  So I sat around and built my own alignment tools.  Basically I
> have build a plumb bob off of the wheel face to measure camber and hve a
> piece of angle sticking past the tires on both sides to measure toe.
(I'll
> take pictures sometime).  Results so far show the ability to align to
about
> 0.25-0.5 degrees camber, and as close on toe as my tape measure is.  Both
> the camber plumb bob and the crossbar to measure toe are mounted to a
piece
> of 1/2 MDF and then strapped tightly to the face of the wheel (centered
> obviously).
>
> Anyway, so I'm all set up now.  The toe is not set yet, I'm sure it's way
> out, I am trying to get the camber close first. On a fist cut I am
measuring
> -0.25 degrees on the right and about -1.5 on the left.  I have not yet
> cranked the control arms all the way in on that side 9but they are close),
> but I may not be able to get any more positive than about -1 degree...
I'll
> keep you all posted.  I figured on setting up to about 1 degree negative
> anyway, with maybe about 1/16th of toe in.  Thoughts?  Car will be driven
on
> the street and track.
>
> BTW, so far it has cost me about 7 dollars to build my alignment tools...
> Although I may eventually check them on a laser machine I have access to
> (Just not all the time).  It'll be interesting to see how accurate they
> are.  My biggest fear right now is that I may end up with a static thrust
> angle, as I am limited on how to measure that.  Best I can do is to
measure
> from my cross beam to a body reference (like the strut rod mount) on both
> sides and set them ths same.
>
> I'll play around some more tonight... maybe I'll take some pictures of my
> homebrew setup if anyone is interested.
>
> Oh, and the Koni rear strust do fin in the Tokico rear housings, but you
> have to do some measuring and cut a spacer to go underneath them.
>
> Z
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