[Shotimes] Help...I have a stuck damper bolt...

[Dave Kegel]

Can you get hold of an air compressor and a really strong air gun?
Since the bolt head is still in good shape, if an air gun put it on, you
should be able to find one that will take it off.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Fourchy
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 4:10 PM
To: shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shotimes] Help...I have a stuck damper bolt...


Hey all..

I'm trying to do a front end 60K on one of the cars I had and sold to a
friend back in the day.  It had an engine swap prior to me getting it.
I'm down to the damper bolt....it will not come off (ratchet method)
even with two batteries connected in parallel for extra amperage for the
starter.  Looking at the bolt, its head is distorted a bit toward
tightening....that is, it is a bit twisted, like a LOT of torque went
onto it when it was last installed.  The 6-point socket goes on OK.  The
engine has been in the car at least since 2000, and I'm supposing it has
not been apart since its installation, perhaps not even then.

I have a die grinder that can grind the bolt head and washer off so that
I can get the damper off, but how much chance is there that the bolt
threads are bound into the crank enough that I might not be able to get
it out?  I'd hate to be stuck with the car with a bad crank and not be
able to get it back to its owner....I don't feel like working on these
things much any more.  (It took me three partial days to do a
strut/spring swap on another car, when 6 years ago the same job took 6
hours.)

If I DID get the bolt out after grinding the head off, how hard would it
be to find another one...I have no idea where my parts are in the
storage shed any more.  I suppose the bolt is obsolete, yes?  Is it
replaceable with another high quality bolt and washer from a parts
store?

I have the starter out.....but I'm afraid to jam anything into the
flywheel....the angle of attack isn't what I was thinking it would be,
and a 2x4 shaped to fit probably wouldn't hold even with another person
holding it in place, and I don't want to put a bunch of wood debris up
into the bell housing.

It has a leaking water pump, which I have to change (and be done today,
by the way)....the CPS, belt and seal would be nice to swap, but are not
mandatory.  I though of sacrificing the center portion of the plastic
timing cover, so I could at least get to the waterpump, but the CPS
cable goes in front of it....I'd just LOVE to damage that while breaking
away the plastic parts.

George
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