[Shotimes] Help...I have a stuck damper bolt...

[Zach Leahy]

Dave,

It's gonna tak a heck of an impact to get that off...  think 3/4" drive at
least.   Maybe 1"

Before I knew the starter trick, I had to take mine off without it... I took
off th oil pan and wedged a 2x4 setion between the side of the block and one
of the crank counterweights or journals.  after I got it wedged tight, you
can get the biggest cheater bar known to man (with a lever large enough I
can lift the planet-like), and just go to town on it.

I am with you, cutting the head off is probably not the best idea.  If the
Previous installer put locktite on the bolt, then you will be having a
machine shop remove the shank from the crank....  and you can just go ahead
and order all the rebuild bits then :)

You could alternatively sacrifice the pully by welding a bar to it and
letting it torque up against the subframe.

Z


On 2/23/06, Dave Kegel <d.kegel@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Can you get hold of an air compressor and a really strong air gun?
> Since the bolt head is still in good shape, if an air gun put it on, you
> should be able to find one that will take it off.
>
> Dave
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Fourchy
> Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 4:10 PM
> To: shotimes@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shotimes] Help...I have a stuck damper bolt...
>
>
> Hey all..
>
> I'm trying to do a front end 60K on one of the cars I had and sold to a
> friend back in the day.  It had an engine swap prior to me getting it.
> I'm down to the damper bolt....it will not come off (ratchet method)
> even with two batteries connected in parallel for extra amperage for the
> starter.  Looking at the bolt, its head is distorted a bit toward
> tightening....that is, it is a bit twisted, like a LOT of torque went
> onto it when it was last installed.  The 6-point socket goes on OK.  The
> engine has been in the car at least since 2000, and I'm supposing it has
> not been apart since its installation, perhaps not even then.
>
> I have a die grinder that can grind the bolt head and washer off so that
> I can get the damper off, but how much chance is there that the bolt
> threads are bound into the crank enough that I might not be able to get
> it out?  I'd hate to be stuck with the car with a bad crank and not be
> able to get it back to its owner....I don't feel like working on these
> things much any more.  (It took me three partial days to do a
> strut/spring swap on another car, when 6 years ago the same job took 6
> hours.)
>
> If I DID get the bolt out after grinding the head off, how hard would it
> be to find another one...I have no idea where my parts are in the
> storage shed any more.  I suppose the bolt is obsolete, yes?  Is it
> replaceable with another high quality bolt and washer from a parts
> store?
>
> I have the starter out.....but I'm afraid to jam anything into the
> flywheel....the angle of attack isn't what I was thinking it would be,
> and a 2x4 shaped to fit probably wouldn't hold even with another person
> holding it in place, and I don't want to put a bunch of wood debris up
> into the bell housing.
>
> It has a leaking water pump, which I have to change (and be done today,
> by the way)....the CPS, belt and seal would be nice to swap, but are not
> mandatory.  I though of sacrificing the center portion of the plastic
> timing cover, so I could at least get to the waterpump, but the CPS
> cable goes in front of it....I'd just LOVE to damage that while breaking
> away the plastic parts.
>
> George
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