[Shotimes] Help...I have a stuck damper bolt...

[Mike]

Are you using a breaker bar, or ratchet?  I found when mine was tight that
with a breaker bar, I could back the bar off the frame a bit, 1-2". then let
'er rip.  The action of the impact against the frame is far greater than
just trying to turn it with no impact.
Mike


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George Fourchy" <krazgeo@comcast.net>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 2:10 PM
Subject: [Shotimes] Help...I have a stuck damper bolt...


> Hey all..
>
> I'm trying to do a front end 60K on one of the cars I had and sold to a
friend back
> in the day.  It had an engine swap prior to me getting it.  I'm down to
the damper
> bolt....it will not come off (ratchet method) even with two batteries
connected in
> parallel for extra amperage for the starter.  Looking at the bolt, its
head is
> distorted a bit toward tightening....that is, it is a bit twisted, like a
LOT of
> torque went onto it when it was last installed.  The 6-point socket goes
on OK.  The
> engine has been in the car at least since 2000, and I'm supposing it has
not been
> apart since its installation, perhaps not even then.
>
> I have a die grinder that can grind the bolt head and washer off so that I
can get
> the damper off, but how much chance is there that the bolt threads are
bound into
> the crank enough that I might not be able to get it out?  I'd hate to be
stuck with
> the car with a bad crank and not be able to get it back to its owner....I
don't feel
> like working on these things much any more.  (It took me three partial
days to do a
> strut/spring swap on another car, when 6 years ago the same job took 6
hours.)
>
> If I DID get the bolt out after grinding the head off, how hard would it
be to find
> another one...I have no idea where my parts are in the storage shed any
more.  I
> suppose the bolt is obsolete, yes?  Is it replaceable with another high
quality bolt
> and washer from a parts store?
>
> I have the starter out.....but I'm afraid to jam anything into the
flywheel....the
> angle of attack isn't what I was thinking it would be, and a 2x4 shaped to
fit
> probably wouldn't hold even with another person holding it in place, and I
don't
> want to put a bunch of wood debris up into the bell housing.
>
> It has a leaking water pump, which I have to change (and be done today, by
the
> way)....the CPS, belt and seal would be nice to swap, but are not
mandatory.  I
> though of sacrificing the center portion of the plastic timing cover, so I
could at
> least get to the waterpump, but the CPS cable goes in front of it....I'd
just LOVE
> to damage that while breaking away the plastic parts.
>
> George
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