[Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...

[Leigh Smith]

A "puck" type clutch disc will never give you as smooth of a clutch
engagement as a stock disc. The reason: it has no "marcel" That is a wavy
flat spring under the facing of a stock disc that lets it grab and still be
compressed a little. It adds smoothness. Removing the marcel adds strength.
This also means they require a different engagement technique. For
smoothness slip the clutch at a higher than normal rpm, say 1500 -2000 rpm
or more. This will eliminate the chatter, due to the speed. Then when the
clutch starts to "grab" release the pedal quickly, to avoid the chatter.
It's the stage where it starts to grab, and the two parts are almost the
same speed, that causes the chatter. Some very heavy duty race clutches
exaggerate this to the point where they operate almost like a light switch,
they are either all on, or all off. They have no slip at all. (The slipping
tires adds any necessary smoothness). Just be careful with slipping a SHO
clutch too much or you will burn it up due to the heat.
Lee
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Edward Mazurek" <emazurek@cisco.com>
To: "Leigh Smith" <leigh1322@comcast.net>
Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...


> Hi Lee,
>
> I don't remember seeing any of the motor mounts being torn or
> broken. But, since they are rubber they may "losen up" without
> actually tearing. I'm trying to decide if changing out the motor
> mounts would allievate my problem to a large extent.
>
> It's an easier place to start but still $300 or so in parts.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed
>
> Leigh Smith wrote:
>
> >Ed;
> >If you suspect a torn motor mount, I would confirm that and replace that
> >part first. It is much easier and less labor intensive and can be done
with
> >motor and subframe in the car. Basically just try to lift the engine,
with a
> >floor jack or similar, and watch carefully for lift and separation at the
> >mount. And Yes; a torn mount willl give you some strange clutch chatter,
or
> >exaggerate any chatter that may be present. That may or may not be your
> >whole problem, but it is a much easier place to start.
> >Lee
> >----- Original Message ----- 
> >From: "Edward Mazurek" <emazurek@cisco.com>
> >To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 4:54 PM
> >Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>Hi Frank,
> >>
> >>Yes, I did replace the Clutch Fork shaft bushings. Apparently, this disc
> >>is more high performance
> >>than smooth.
> >>
> >>Joshua, from SHONut, agreed to swap out the disc for a stock one. That's
> >>a nice offer but the time
> >>involved to swap it out! He mentioned that the website says: "The
> >>Fibertuff material is still quite streetable, however. "
> >>I guess that was supposed to tell me that it won't be as smooth as the
> >>stock disc. I guess I need to learn
> >>to read between the lines better.
> >>
> >>I guess my question is, should I try and replace the motor mounts? Would
> >>that help? They are pretty
> >>expensive (around $300 for both). SHONut sells reinforced front and back
> >>ones. Apparently the
> >>MTX shock type mount is stock though - no beefier one there.
> >>
> >>If I attempt to replace the motor mounts do I have to drop the entire
> >>subframe again?
> >>
> >>Thanks!
> >>
> >>Ed
> >>_______________________________________________
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