[Spridgets] Handbrake rods + I have nothing to sell! (photo attached)

GUY DAY grday at btinternet.com
Tue Dec 13 06:29:42 MST 2016


I've used stock - over the counter - stainless threaded bar on a couple of trailers with over-run brakes without problem and I would image there would be less force on a hand operated system so yes - use it.  I have tried using a SS rod and threading that but it was not the world's easiest job cutting the thread in it no matter what lubricant I used.  Still a doable job though.Best of luck,
Guy R Day 

    On Tuesday, 13 December 2016, 12:59, WeslakeMonza1330--- via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
 

  Hi list, The last will be first etc.  I don't have anything to sell and if I did I think the shipping might be excessive.  I think the list/my response gave a couple of listers the impression I did when I commented on a previous post about a 1275 and box being the best parts etc. So, onto a brand new question and probably never asked before on the list.  I run 8" drums on the rear of my Sprite to balance out the big discs on the front and so I can perform 'parking brake turns' when the mood takes me...  Consequently I also originally had modified handbrake rods to work with the 8" drums.  When the holes in the clevis ends was worn more than I liked and made the cotter pins sloppy I replaced them with new rods.  The new rods are for 'unisex' by which I mean they are designed to work with steel wheel or wire wheel axle casings being adjustable in length.  The adjustment is at the drum end by way of the rod being threaded (metric M6 I think ...) and a threaded clevis fork.  Having recently swapped my handbrake (photo attached and yes I realise I need to paint the inside of the holes black) I decided to adjust the rods.  One rod wasn't adjust that well and when I put the rod in the vice and put a wrench on the nut I sheared the rod.  OK new rods on order + an extra long clevis end and an M6 die so I may be able to salvage the old rod by threading past the break. However, it occurred to me that if the rod hadn't rusted the nut wouldn't have jammed and the rod sheared.  So, I'm pondering making a pair of replacement rods in stainless steel.  Since this stainless steel isn't to the ARP grade of stainless and it is loaded in tension is it likely to be strong enough?  Probably I'll make a stainless rod anyway and find out.  However, I figure the standard steel rod wasn't that great a quality of steel and yanking on the handbrake and loading the rod in tension ought to not break even stainless bar, or will it. Thanks  Daniel
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