[TR] Triumphs Digest, Oil Pan Leakage
Brian Schirano
bschirano1 at gmail.com
Fri Jul 29 14:55:11 MDT 2022
Hello
I have not seen anyone mention internal engine pressures. I had exactly the
same problem on my GT6 after a rebuild. It was suggested to me the engine
needed better venting, excess pressure was *pushing* the oil out. For
example, replacing the oil fill cap on the valve cover with a vented style,
or in my case a larger vent hose going to a catch can. I had an advantage
that I had an electric fuel pump and could pick up a vent line from the
fuel pump blanking plate as well. In the end these fixes solved the problem
without changing any gaskets. That said, someone did mention the valve
cover leaking, I don't use one but am told the silicone gaskets seal better
than the cork.
Cheers
Brian
On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 2:26 PM <triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (William Brewer)
> 2. Re: valve ticking (Frank Magnusson)
> 3. Re: TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (Joel Justin)
> 4. Re: TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (bill beecher)
> 5. Re: TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (Cliff Hansen)
> 6. Re: valve ticking (DAVE HOGYE)
> 7. Re: valve ticking (dave northrup)
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: William Brewer <billbrewer59 at yahoo.com>
> To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 13:11:22 -0700
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
> I have been trying to get the oil pan to quit being so leaky for
> over 30 years and two engine rebuilds now. I made sure that the bolt
> holes in the pan are lower than the mounting surface. I check the pan
> fit with a feeler gauge with no gasket. I get everything cleaned off. I
> have tried Permatex, Aviation Permatex and Hylomar Blue. I have used the
> recommended torques. Still slowly seeping and dripping over time. It
> seems worse in the front that the rear and no the front aluminum sealing
> block isn't stripped out.
>
> I have family members asking me not to bring the TR3 and Morgan
> over to their houses because of the amount of drips.
>
> I have looking over the "Triumph Experience" website and it looks
> like most owners there have thrown their hands up and given up. Either
> that or the ones that say that they are drip free probably haven't
> driven their cars much.
>
> I've considered CNC'ing a 3/8" steel mounting flange, welding that
> to the top of the oil sump (the weld would seal on the inside) and then
> torquing that sonofabitch down tight with permatex on it. No more
> worrying about flange distortion.
>
> I've also considered making a sheet metal "catch box" that would
> mount under the pan and completely enclose it to catch drips. It could
> be held on with 4 bolts and removed/cleaned out at oil changes. I should
> make a long aluminum drip pan that goes under the sump, rear seal and
> transmission.
>
> Anyone ever get there TR2/3/4 oil pans to stay drip free?
>
> -Bill Brewer
>
> Morro Bay, CA
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Frank Magnusson <fmags at cox.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 18:53:28 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TR] valve ticking
> Hi David,
>
> It could be several things. Some light ticking is normal.
> You might try an oil additive. I’ve used Marvel Mystery oil with every
> oil chnage for many years and I first started using it after I had a
> sticking valve on a Chevy Impala at the suggestion of a mechanic and it
> freed that sticking valve right up. I’ve used it ever since.
> It could also be your valves needing adjustment, but it sounds like you’ve
> done that. You might recheck it to make sure that an adjustment nut didn’t
> come loose.
> Lastly, pull the valve cover off and make sure that you dont have a broken
> valve spring.
> I had a light valve ticking on my GT6, which sounded different than usual
> and it turned out to be a broken valve spring.
> Hope this helps,
> Frank
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Joel Justin <j_bar_j at hotmail.com>
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 23:53:57 +0000
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
>
> Bill,
>
>
>
> If it’s leaking from the front, it’s quite likely it’s not the oil pan but
> rather the front engine plate. While it’s something like 3/16” steel, they
> can suffer from over-torquing and warp. Even though there’s lots of bolts,
> seeps between them happens. Given the plate ends where the oil pan begins,
> it’s pretty hart to distinguish pan vs. plate. If you clean things up
> REALLY well, then run it for a short time, you might be able to see which
> it is. Unfortunately, it’s pretty much an engine out to replace, unless you
> try to support the front of the engine and try to remove it in situ. You
> could try using lots of Permatex silicone sealer when you reassemble, or
> buy a new front plate (available new in aluminum). If you convince yourself
> it’s the pan, you could also purchase an aluminum one. It has a thick flat
> block mating surface. Good luck!
>
>
>
> Joel Justin…
>
> ’54 TR2
>
> ’58 10 Estate
>
> ‘60 TR3A
>
> ’61 TR4
>
> ’65 2000 Saloon
>
> ’71 GT6
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com>
> To: Joel Justin <j_bar_j at hotmail.com>
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 08:39:28 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
> Good thought Joel. I don’t have any leak issues but you make a good
> point. Also could be the timing cover, which suffers the same ills as the
> sump pan.
> Best regards,
> Bill
> TS30800L
>
> “Do your best, and let the sparrows twitter” Lofty
>
> On Jul 28, 2022, at 11:21 PM, Joel Justin <j_bar_j at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Bill,
>
>
>
> If it’s leaking from the front, it’s quite likely it’s not the oil pan but
> rather the front engine plate. While it’s something like 3/16” steel, they
> can suffer from over-torquing and warp. Even though there’s lots of bolts,
> seeps between them happens. Given the plate ends where the oil pan begins,
> it’s pretty hart to distinguish pan vs. plate. If you clean things up
> REALLY well, then run it for a short time, you might be able to see which
> it is. Unfortunately, it’s pretty much an engine out to replace, unless you
> try to support the front of the engine and try to remove it in situ. You
> could try using lots of Permatex silicone sealer when you reassemble, or
> buy a new front plate (available new in aluminum). If you convince yourself
> it’s the pan, you could also purchase an aluminum one. It has a thick flat
> block mating surface. Good luck!
>
>
>
> Joel Justin…
>
> ’54 TR2
>
> ’58 10 Estate
>
> ‘60 TR3A
>
> ’61 TR4
>
> ’65 2000 Saloon
>
> ’71 GT6
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com>
> To: William Brewer <billbrewer59 at yahoo.com>, Triumph List <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 14:50:59 +0000
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
>
> Bill,
>
>
>
> Following.
>
>
>
> I replaced the pan gasket on my TR4A about a year ago. I carefully leveled
> the mating surface using a dolly then a file, new gasket with Permatex #2,
> and actually used a in-lb torque wrench. Before it leaked moderately from
> the pan-to-block join. Now it leaks slooowly, accumulating a drop at almost
> every bolt head, even the bolts that don’t pass into the interior of the
> engine. It’s frustrating because I’ve managed to solve every other leak.
>
>
>
> Cliff
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows
>
>
>
> *From: *William Brewer <billbrewer59 at yahoo.com>
> *Sent: *Thursday, July 28, 2022 8:19 PM
> *To: *Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
>
>
>
> I have been trying to get the oil pan to quit being so leaky for
> over 30 years and two engine rebuilds now. I made sure that the bolt
> holes in the pan are lower than the mounting surface. I check the pan
> fit with a feeler gauge with no gasket. I get everything cleaned off. I
> have tried Permatex, Aviation Permatex and Hylomar Blue. I have used the
> recommended torques. Still slowly seeping and dripping over time. It
> seems worse in the front that the rear and no the front aluminum sealing
> block isn't stripped out.
>
> I have family members asking me not to bring the TR3 and Morgan
> over to their houses because of the amount of drips.
>
> I have looking over the "Triumph Experience" website and it looks
> like most owners there have thrown their hands up and given up. Either
> that or the ones that say that they are drip free probably haven't
> driven their cars much.
>
> I've considered CNC'ing a 3/8" steel mounting flange, welding that
> to the top of the oil sump (the weld would seal on the inside) and then
> torquing that sonofabitch down tight with permatex on it. No more
> worrying about flange distortion.
>
> I've also considered making a sheet metal "catch box" that would
> mount under the pan and completely enclose it to catch drips. It could
> be held on with 4 bolts and removed/cleaned out at oil changes. I should
> make a long aluminum drip pan that goes under the sump, rear seal and
> transmission.
>
> Anyone ever get there TR2/3/4 oil pans to stay drip free?
>
> -Bill Brewer
>
> Morro Bay, CA
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>
> To: Frank Magnusson <fmags at cox.net>, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 08:26:43 -0700 (PDT)
> Subject: Re: [TR] valve ticking
> It is common for some rocker arms to wear heavily, (do to the hardness
> factor variation) where they touch the valve tip. So, an accurate valve
> adjustment is nearly impossible. You'd have to have a very slim feeler
> gauge to adjust them correctly. Basically the standard feeler gauge will
> bridge the wear area of the rocker and not allow proper measurement.
> Dave H.
>
> > On 07/28/2022 4:53 PM Frank Magnusson <fmags at cox.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi David,
> >
> > It could be several things. Some light ticking is normal.
> > You might try an oil additive. I’ve used Marvel Mystery oil with every
> oil chnage for many years and I first started using it after I had a
> sticking valve on a Chevy Impala at the suggestion of a mechanic and it
> freed that sticking valve right up. I’ve used it ever since.
> > It could also be your valves needing adjustment, but it sounds like
> you’ve done that. You might recheck it to make sure that an adjustment nut
> didn’t come loose.
> > Lastly, pull the valve cover off and make sure that you dont have a
> broken valve spring.
> > I had a light valve ticking on my GT6, which sounded different than
> usual and it turned out to be a broken valve spring.
> > Hope this helps,
> > Frank
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye@comcast.net
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 16:55:01 +0000
> Subject: Re: [TR] valve ticking
> Something to check: if you tighten the valve cover too much it will bend
> it down to where the rockers hit it
> _______________________________________________
>
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--
Brian Schirano
585-305-0349
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