©By: John T. Blair (WA4OHZ)
1133 Chatmoss Dr., Va. Beach, Va. 23464; (757) 495-8229

Last update: March 18, 2002

In my previous article, I covered most of the basics. However, I'd like to make a couple of points:

1. When you purchase your paint, I'd suggest that you get at least 2 quarts of color. Are you doing the inside and bottom of the body or just the top. If you are doing the chassis and the inside of the body tub then you may want to get a gallon. The reason for getting a quanity is to insure color. When you get you paint, also ask for several extra empty gallon can - I think they run about $2. ea. Pour some of the paint (a quart at a time if you like) from the original 1 gallon can into one of the new ones. Then mix in your thinner/reducer. You will now end up with 1/2 gal or so of mixed paint. Then use this to shoot with. This way you will always have some "good" original color paint left.

2. Several said that with enamel, what you see is what you get. That's not quite true.
   1. Be careful with enamel, it doesn't go on "wet" looking like lacquer. If you get it looking wet it will *run*!!! I haven't had any trouble sanding out runs and touching up the area. It just talks longer for enamel to dry. A run will typically take about 1 hr or more to dry to where you can sand it out.
   2. Enamel is very susceptable to "fish eye". These are little rings where the paint won't stick. This is due to oil on the surface to be painted. Just before you are ready to shoot the color paint, you need to wipe the surface down with a "de-greaser". Also you should put some "fish eye" remover in the paint that is in the gun just before you shoot. It only takes a few drops.

      If you get fish eyes, you will have to sand the area down, clean with degreaser and repaint. If you go down to the metal you will need to re-prime the spot.

   3. Enamel is also very prone to "orange peel". This is because the paint is drying before it has a chance to flow out. If this starts to happen, you will either need to add more reducer or change the reducer you are using, to a slower drying one.

      This is where the what you see is what you get comes into play. If you have a nice shinny job, you may want to leave well enough alone. But, if you have dull areas, either due to orange peel or over spray it can be fixed. You will have to let it set for at least a week if not a month. Then you can "wet" or "color" sand it. This is simply sanding with a rubber backing pad with 1200 to 2000 grit paper and lots of water!!! This sand off the highs from the over spray or orange peel and kill the shine. Once the body is completely dull you will be able to buff it back out.

3. Some notes on buffing.
   1. You will need a good buffer. I have not had any success with the vertical ones sold for polishing a car. I use a horizontal buffer. Black and Decker made the one I have, but they discontinued it a couple of years ago. I don't know if they make something to replace it. The buffer should be about 2000-2400 rpm. A low/high speed or a variable speed is fine, but you will usually use the high speed setting.
   2. 3M makes a great buffing system. Instead of using the old wool bonnets, they have what looks like sponge rubber waffle pads. This is about the best thing going - in my opinion. Then you will need at least 2 if not 3 different compounds.

4. So far, I haven't seen anything about primers.
   1. Starting with fact that the parts have been stripped and primed. I usually don't let the sandblasters prime my parts. I will treat all bare metal with Ospho or DuPont's Metal conditioner. This is phosphoric acid. It will etch the metal for better adheasion by the primer, and kill any surface rust.

   2. In the past, I've always used lacquer primer (even for enamel paint jobs). However, primers are hydroscopic - absorbe water. Consiquently if you don't get a top coat on it quickly, the metal will start to rust under the primer.

      There are a couple of new primers on the market:

      1. VeriPrime (DuPont I believe). This is a good primer and contains the phsophoric acid. But it WILL rust if not top coated quickly.

      2. There are some new eurathaine primers out. These are supposed to be water proof. So if you are painting a car in pieces or it will be a while before the parts are top coated, I would recommend that you look into using one of these primers.

      3. And there are some Poly Ester primers. These are basically sprayable fiberglass and are high fill. The almost grow after they've been sprayed on. They can supposedly fill 36 grit sanding scratches with no problem. I'll let you know more on this later as I plan on priming my Bricklin body with this and I used 36 grit sandpaper to sand the surface flat.

   John

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