In a message dated 96-04-17 11:38:35 EDT, you write:
> On a related note have you removed the rear-end from your Alpine?
> What is the best method, jack-stand the back and remove the whole
> axle? or work while it's in place. I think that the differential
> would be very had to remove with out pulling the whole axle.
I've unfortunately had to swap differentials a few times. Its easier to do
with the axle housing still in the car. After disconnecting the backing
plates and brake lines, you'll need to come up with a puller to yank each
axle out to be able to remove the differential. Some people attach a long
heavy chain under two lug nuts and use the weight and inertia of the chain to
free the axles. A puller from a rental shop may work, but often the axle nut
interferes with the puller center. (BTW, if you've found a good price on
Series V axle bearing/seals, nows the time to replace them.)
Once you've got the differential out, bend back the soft washers and check
the tightness of the crown wheel bolts, removing one at a time and then
replacing. If you use a torque wrench set very low, say about 15 lbs, I
think you'll be surprised to find some if not all of the bolts loose.
Sunbeam Specialties carries replacement bolts. Even if you switch
differentials, I suggest putting new bolts in. They WILL loosen under the
soft washers and break off eventually.
If the bearing faces are OK and replacing the crown wheel bolts is the only
necessary repair, the bad news is that the differential may still howl. At
least that's been my experience.
For replacement units, keep your eye out for any derelict 1969 Alpine GT or
Coupe fastbacks. The 3.89:1 from the fastback works, but you'll have to swap
the driveshaft coupling, which is shorter on the Series V. From your VIN,
you've got an early Series V (pre-B 395010312) which had a 4.22 from the
factory, so the 3.89 may make it easier to drive on the freeway.
Dick Sanders
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