I sheared the woodruff key once my self. In the parking lot of my high
school. I was, needless to say, kind of hard on the old car. Dropping
the clutch in reverse (at) 3,000 RPM did it for me. I managed to limp
home, and removed the nut. A sheared woodruff key really does make a
mess of the hub and the shaft. I decided to change the woodruff key in
the other hub. I removed the nut, applied pressure from a cheap little
wheel puller, and then gave the back of the hub a good sharp smack with
a hammer. You never want to pound on the end of the axle. If you MUST,
then find a die for the that thread diameter and pitch, and spin it on
to the shaft first. This way when you do spread the end of the threaded
area, just remove the die, and it will remove all of the metal that has
been spread out, leaving only perfect threads on the shaft. I learned
this the hard way on other cars.
Rich
>----------
>From: tgeiger(at)HiWAAY.net[SMTP:tgeiger(at)HiWAAY.net]
>Sent: Monday, May 27, 1996 9:52 PM
>To: alpines(at)autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Rear Hub Removal
>
>>I removed the tire.
>>
>>I removed the bolt inside the hub which holds the hub to the axel.
>>
>>I put on the puller and applied three-million pounds of force.
>>
>>
>>And it is still on the car.
>>
>>
>>
>>what did I do wrong?
>
>
>I ran into the same problem while rebuilding my ser V diff. Since I
>was
>diassembling the differential for repair anyway, here is the method I
>used:
>
>1. I removed the brake backing plates and them pulled the axles
>(w/bearings
>attached) from the differential housing.
>
>2. I then used a hydraulic press (same one used to press axle
>bearings,
>wristpins, etc.) to push the axle out of the hub. Loosen the axle nut
>a
>couple of turns to where it is flush with the top of the axle so that
>the
>ram head can press squarely on the axle end. If you take the nut
>completely
>off the axle may impale your foot!
>
>3. Insure that the hub is properly supported from the bottom and the
>end of
>the axle meets the the ram head squarely.
>
>4. Pump the hydralic press until the axle pops loose. Now is a good
>time
>to replace the questionable axle bearing while you have the press
>handy.
>
>5. Torque the hubs to 180 lbs when you reassemble. I can tell you
>from an
>unpleasent experience that they will shear the woodruff key and ruin
>the hub
>and axle if you don't do this.
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>Terry Geiger
>Florence, Alabama USA
>
>'66 Sunbeam Alpine - a.k.a. "Puff the Magic Dragon"; named so because
>everytime you shift gears she puffs smoke.
>'67 Sunbeam Alpine - just for parts, just in case
>
>
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