>Does the pressure come up gradually from the start, or does it
>sit there with no pressure at all for some time before suddenly
>jumping up to 50 lbs? If it suddenly comes up, how many seconds
>after starting does it take?
No pressure at all for 4-6 seconds, then it jumps to 50 psi.
>If there's no pressure at all, that initial sound is probably rod
>bearings. The rockers can take a long time to get oil on the
>best of Alpines, and doesn't seem to make much difference in
>noise level.
4-6 seconds doesn't seem that long until you have to listen to the engine
noise until the oil pressure builds. It makes me feel ill. When the car has
set for a week or two, I'll actually disconnect the coil and turn the engine
over until the oil gauge starts to register before I start it up. I don't
know if this helping though, the engine is still turning without oil.
>Is there any chance you're using the wrong dipstick?
I don't think so. The oil level reads full with 4 1/2 quarts at oil change.
>Are the oil cooler hoses on your Series V routed correctly (one
>over the top of the valve cover)? I've heard (and it may be
>rumor) that oil pressure sometimes takes longer to come up if
>both hoses are routed side-by-side through the horn opening.
Correctly? Both are routed through the horn opening. I thought that was
correct. Does re-routing over the valve cover require a longer hose? Which
hose? I suspect it would be the feed hose (aft hose on the oil cooler
adapter block). Just out of curiosity, what would be the difference if the
hoses were reversed at the adapter block?
>The oil pump must be also be considered suspect, especially if
>the pressure is only gradually rising from the start.
The pump was installed new at the time of rebuild.
>In my experience, oil pressure relief valves normally stick open
>only after warming up, but return to normal when turned off, so
>the next startup shouldn't be affected. Its worth the time to
>stick another one in just to see if there's any difference. Does
>the pressure ever fluctuate at steady RPM's?
I looked at my rebuild bill and I was charged for a new "pressure relief
valve". When I looked up the valve in SS catalog they don't list one for my
serial number (B395009965). Instead they recommend that I purchase a later
series filter base with the valve already installed (they also sell just the
valve but only for the later series filter base).
This makes me wonder if I have a later series valve in an early series base?
If so, can this be my problem?
>A final thought: Do you get a hot 40 psi while at idle or at
>higher RPM's? For only a 2,000 mile rebuild, its fine for "at
>idle" but about 10 pounds low for "at speed" conditions. Were
>the cam bearings replaced during the R&R?
Its 40 psi. at speed. However, when we first start out the pressure is in
the 50 psi. range (engine at operating temp) and after an extended period of
highway driving (30-40 minutes) the pressure gradually drops to 40-45 psi "at
speed".
Yes the cam bearings were replaced at rebuild.
Thanks for your help,
Terry Edlund
San Diego, CA
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