In a message dated 96-11-22 10:12:22 EST, rs11(at)ElSegundoCA.NCR.COM
(Spontelli, Ramon) writes:
>
>The bottom line is that this dual-Weber-40 thing is NOT going to be a
>bolt-on application for any of us. So, whether you have ordered one of
>these intakes, or are thinking about it, here s the not-so-good news:
>
> 3. For Series IV and V applications (don t know about Series III), the
brake
>master cylinder has to go. It s too long. Even by removing the spacer
>between the master cylinder and the firewall, it still interferes with the
>intake.
>
>Jay Laifman says he went with an aftermarket brake master cylinder and
>discarded the brake servo to solve this problem on his Holbay-powered Series
>V.
>
>And, on page 156 of the new book, Vintage Racing British Sports Cars, there
>is a picture of a really neat Tilton brake/clutch pedal assembly with dual
>brake master cylinders mounted inside the passenger compartment of Dan
>Sommer s vintage Tiger racer.
>
>For Series I and II applications, you can retain the original brake master
>cylinder by removing the spacer between the master cylinder and the firewall
>and reworking the plumbing to the remote reservoir.
>
>4. Everyone in the line-up, Series I through V, is going to experience the
>same interference problem between the bottom of the rear carburetor and the
>top of the steering box.
>
>The problem here is that the left-rear corner screw on an underside cover
>plate on the carburetor is very close and possibly touching the right-rear
>corner mounting bolt for the steering box cover, depending on the condition
>of your motor mounts.
>
>Another alternative, according to Dan Walters, is to do what Steve Alcala
>did with his Series II vintage racer. That is to remove the steering box
>cover, countersink that hole, and use a flat-head machine screw there
Great job of documenting the intake fit.
On my own Weber setup (with a homemade manifold) on my Series V, I had the
exact clearance problems as described above. In my case, I evenly filed down
the head of the offending steering box cover bolt to create enough clearance
from the bottom of the carb. Similarly, I found that the master cylinder has
a lot of extra "meat" at the front, much of which I filed away, and then
removed the spacer. The result is JUST enough clearance to avoid contact
under load.
I suppose that, combined with careful bending of the brake line from the
master, you could also grind down the master mounting flange a little bit and
pull it further thru the firewall, creating some space at the other end. In
any case, long-legged drivers of later Alpines be forewarned that, if you
remove the spacer from the master, the "lowest" possible brake peddle
position available will then be equal to the former "highest" position.
You mention that the Series I & II master will work if the spacer is removed.
Has anyone had experience with an early master on a later Alpine?
With/without the booster?
Dick Sanders
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