I remember using a large chain wrench around the belt pully with the
handle resting against the frame. For some reason, that hand crank
starter adapter was always coming loose on my Series IV, making a
tickling sound like change in your pocket.
Rich
>----------
>From: DSand95510(at)aol.com[SMTP:DSand95510(at)aol.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 1997 9:09 PM
>To: GROSS(at)unit.com; alpines(at)autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Removing crank bolt with starter lug
>
>In a message dated 97-03-04 20:48:31 EST, GROSS(at)UNIT.COM (Jarrid Gross (Yorba
>Linda, Ca)) writes:
>
>>A larget socket would obviuosly be nice, but I use a vise-grip locked
>>around the area
>>that sticks out of the crank pully.
>>
>>Put the car in 4th gear with the e-brake on "This locks the engine".
>>A carefull whack with a lead hammer in the counter-clockwise direction
>>will likely unlock the bolt.
>>
>>Find a correct fitting socket, cause you'll need it for tightening the
>>bolt to the 160 to 180 lb ft spec. later.
>>
>>
>
>Sounds like the ticket for loosening the Whitworth-sized bolt. But what
>about tightening it?
>
>Does anyone have any ideas on how to secure the engine (in the car,
>preferably with the pan still on) and torque the bolt down to 160-180 lb ft
>before the clutch starts slipping?
>
>Dick Sanders
>Series V x 2
>
>
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