My S.V is now all in boxes - everywhere. Hopefully my random scribbling
will be identifiable come put it together time. The question "to dip,
or not to dip" has not been resolved in my mind. If I lived within 500
miles of Dayton Ohio I would have the car at Tiger Auto. However in New
Orleans LA I doubt that anyone has a frame holder like you see on their
web page. Most people seem to think that dipping leaves a lot of
important areas inaccessible to paint. I can't decide.
Today I opened up the engine. When I started to take off front pulley -
harmonic balancer or whatever, the nut holding it looked like it took a
1/2" drive socket driver. Didn't look like the crank thing that the
service manual showed. Since it fit a 1/2" drive socket I tried that.
A long breakover bar wouldn't budge it so I took a sledge hammer and an
old solid handle and with a few very solid whacks got it off. Upon
inspection the damn thing was a 1 1/4" socket firmly stuck onto the nut.
They had even spray painted it red like the timing gear cover! "made in
Japan" Bastardized the whole car!!!
The pistons have marks all over their tops like the cam got out of time
with the crank and the valves collided with the pistons. That is a
"real" timing chain. The tensioner seem kind of Mickey Mouse, but I
have a hard time envisioning how this happened. (quite possibly Mickey
Mouse is an improper use of metaphors for British engineering)
The crank rod throws are round, but have some minor scoring (scratches)
that appear to have come from the previous owner freeing up the engine
without disassembling it. It seams the engine was frozen when he got it
and he only removed the head and with some penetrating oil and force got
it to turn. My 2-3" mike hasn't been used in many years. I have no
standard and remember having it checked several years ago and it was off
a bit. I'll go buy a new mike, or a standard and an ID mike to check
out the cylinder holes. Then again I may just ship it off somewhere.
Who does "mail order" engine rebuilds? Who's good, who's naughty, who's
nice? It seems to me that someone who specializes in this type of thing
would be competitive price wise with "Joe's machine shop", especially if
I want the cylinders bored, or the crank ground. Having seen one of
these things before should lend itself to better QC.
The rod bearings are marked .010 which I take to mean that the crank has
already been ground ten thousandths under. How low can you go? My mike
reads 2.103 (off a bit) which is consistent with 10 under and Diameter
of crankpin "B" in the service manual. I can't find where they define
what "A" and "B" are and how you tell. They list "A" as 2.125 and "B"
as 2.115. How do you figure this one??
Again, thanks for listening. All advice will be welcomed, but not
necessarily heeded - I'm bad about that.
Paul in New Orleans
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