I was told that you can gain access to behind the rocker panel by removing
the sealing tar near the bottom of the wheel arches at the ends of the
rocker panel. You are supposed to be able to clean out the debri that
accumulates there (and contributes to rot) by using a long stiff wire with
a hook. I had postulated that you could apply sealer (like DP40) through
this access by taking a length of copper tubing, crimp one end shut, drill
small holes along its length and attaching it to the end of a spray can or
gun. I never tried it but I did notice that on my cars it looks like there
is indeed limited access to this area at the points mentioned.
At 03:59 PM 6/19/97 +0000, Andy Whiteford wrote:
>>Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 09:47:11 -0700 (PDT)
>>From: Timothy Obrien <vbob(at)primenet.com>
>>Subject: Re:Middle Rocker corrosion
>>
>>
>>Somewhere shortly down the road, I will be doing a replacement job on the
>>outer and middle rocker panels on my 66 SV. The question is, If I weld a
>>new middle panel in, how do I do corrosion control on the backside of that
>>section? Same for when I weld the outer rocker over the middle. Seems to
>>be the weak point of double box construction.
>>Any ideas for preventing the recurrance of terminal rust would be
>>appreciated.
>>tim
>>
>>
>Tim...
>Just apply 2 or 3 of coats of a good rustproofing paint e.g "hammerite"
>before you fit. Only a little will burn off. (Use a weld-through primer
>instead on the bottom flanges of the outer & central sill/rockers). You
>can inject rustproofing cavity wax from holes drilled in innermost sill
>just above floor (for inner "box") and through ledge on outer sill step
>(for outer box). (Finish all welding in wheelarch closing sections,
>outrigger etc before you inject the wax.). Wax should creep into joints
>under gravity. Fit grommets or flush filler over to finish.
>Tips- 1/Check door gaps 5/8inch & Brace shell 2/Repair lower 'A'post
>*before* you remove old central sill. 3/remember condensation-drain
>holes.4/ If you're lucky you need only replace lower half of central sill &
>you can leave outer sill upper step in place- Wire brush and paint 'em 5/
>dress panel flanges to minimise any gaps.
>I hope your innermost sills are solid or can be patched - full replacement
>is possible, but a pain (guess how I know!). Maybe you know some of this
>stuff already, if so, apologies in advance. BTW, I'm currently tackling the
>rear inner arches. Nightmare rust :-(
>
>cheers
>
>Andy Whiteford Ser III GT
>Glasgow, SCOTLAND.
>
>
>
>
Frank Marrone MK I Tiger B9471116
marrone(at)wco.com 1966 LTD
Series I Alpine "fix me"
Yamaha Seca 900
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