RE: Cooling Questions, or a overheating problem

From: Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA) (GROSS(at)unit.com)
Date: Wed Jul 09 1997 - 10:34:00 CDT


J Kurt Bonk wrote,

>1) were any SV's produced with shrouds, I know the earlyer models had
>them.

No, not even the earlier ones.

The series 1 and 2 cars "Crossflow radiators" had a "protection
shroud",
but I would hardly call it functional.

>3) how many blades are on the stock fan?

4, but 6 blade parts from other Rootes cars pop in now and then.

>5) are the water pump pully's the same size, a smaller diameter more
>revolutions, more volume throught the radiator, but only if there is
>enough air moving throught the mouth of the car????? hummmmmm

More power losses too.

>6) were any blocking materials used to direct the flow of air through
the
>oil coller and lower radiator from the lower part of the mouth ( under
the
>bumper)

Not from the factory.

>I feel the engineering of the factory is far superior to some of the
>modifications, 16"sucker fan, four row aluminum radiator, this cars had
>to run reliably or they would not have had the life they had..........I
just
>can't figure this beast out.........help
>Kurt

Here are my thoughts now...

1) Check and verify both static and timing advance.

6 to 10 degrees static timing with 26 degrees of mechanical advance at
4500.
"These distibutors will hace a 13 stamped on the counterwieghts". for 13
cam
degees "26 crank degrees".

Too little or too much advance is not good.

2) Is your car tuned as well as you think it is?

Just because it is running and not popping or belching does not mean
that
the air fuel ratio is even vaguely correct.

Use an EGO or a Colortune kit to verify operation.

LOOK AT YOUR PLUGS!

These little things tell an important story.
If the left two look brown and the right two look white, guess which
side
is running hot "lean"?

3) Is your motor crudded up with scale?

Did you or your mechanic use acid to clean the block during a rebuild?

4) Do you have one of those cheesie platic broken impellors on your
 H2O pump?

Are you sure?

5) Did some nasty mechanic weld up half of your cross tubes in your
radiator
to stop a leak?

COMMON CHEAP $(at)! PRACTICE!

6) Does your thermometer work properly/accurately?

7) Does your thermostat work?

Put it is a pot of boiling water, and watch it.

That is about all I can recommend, but I would like to make the
statement
that putting a huge superfast spinning fan is not too prudent to fix
this
problem, as the amount of air that these puppies can draw through the
radiator, becomes rather insignificant in relation to the amount the car
naturally draws at speed.

If your car cant cool itself at speeds above 30 MPH, than you are in
deep
stuff. See items 1 to 7.

If your car stays cool at speed, but not at idle, then consider the
bigger fan.

Jarrid Gross



This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Tue Sep 05 2000 - 09:47:21 CDT