Tom Yang wrote:
>
> <Are those jack spots really strong enough to holding up the car? I do
> know
> that for Porsches, with similar square jacking holes, they make this really
> neat jacking pad, which is a round metal part of about 3 or 4 inches in
> diameter attached to a square peg that fits in the hole. This allows the
> use of a hydraulic jack and the factory jacking spots. Anyone want to make
> them for the Sunbeam? Though come to think of it, the jacking point is
> awfully high, and might not work with most jacks.
>
> Jay>
>
> Do you actually trust those slots on your Porsche? If you've ever seen how
> they attach to the inner rocker, you would never use it again! And I'm
> talking about the "solid" pre-74 cars, don't even think about the rusty
> ones!
>
> I've always trusted a floor jack and a block of wood on a frame rail. The
> jack receiver points on Alpine or 911 should only be used as a last resort!
>
> Tom
Jay and Tom:
As the owner of a Series I, which has only three jacking points( the
frame-leg on the left front corner has been torn/twisted off and is now
being replaced with a piece of Series V -jacking point/bumper mount and
about 8 inches of frame-leg), I agree with the emergency use only of the
jack receiver points. I have been using the differential housing center
in the rear and a wooden block on the center of the cross-member to
raise the front. The rear should be o.k. but I have always wondered
about using the front cross-member at all due to its weird shape.
(Structurally, with a pad to distribute surface-loading, I think it is
strong enough to resist normal jacking forces without distortion).
Anyone out there disagree?
P.S.: Another use of the jacking points is definitely to test the
torsional rigidity of any car you're thinking of buying!
Ron Tebo - Series I - B9000627
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