>In a message dated 98-03-29 06:06:11 EST, you write:
>
><< Date: Sat, 28 Mar 1998 12:33:10 -0500
> From: Jeff Antosiak <sunbeam(at)tir.com>
> Subject: Re: Tonneau Stud & Nut Installation
>
> Chris (and all)
> I was faced with the oversized holes on my wife's SV a few years back
> and the solution was to use the lift-a-dot stud and nut. The way I got
> the nut (and lockwasher) on the inside of the panel is as follows (if
> memeory serves me):
>
> Insert a a couple of feet of small gauge wire down through the hole
> until you can fish it through into the interior of the car - so now you
> have a few inches of wire sticking out of the hole in the top of the
> fender and a few inches of wire coming out of the top frame pivot area.
>
> Form a tiny loop in the end of the wire that's inside the top frame area
> and tie a couple of feet of light gauge string to the end of it -
> remember that you are going to have to pull this through the hole in the
> fender, so keep it small!
>
> Next slip the lockwasher and nut onto the other end of the string
> (washer first, then the nut) and tie a knot or two on the end of the
> string so the the nut won't slide off.
>
> Now pull the wire/string/hardware combo up through the hole until the
> washer and nut are up against the inside of the fender. At this point
> squirt some thin white (Elmers, etc) glue through the hole so that the
> hardware is coated. Let the wire dangle down the side of the car until
> the glue sets up. I think that I might have put some addition weight on
> the end of the wire to help hold the hardware against the inside of the
> fender.
>
> Once the glue has dried, you can cut the string off near the fender and
> gently push the remainder through the hole of the fender. This is where
> a little luck helps! Not enough glue and the hardware is sitting in the
> bottom of the fender.
>
> At this point you take the lift-a-dot stud and insert it into the hole
> and try and get it started into the nut. Too think of a glue and you'll
> never start it and most likely push down into the fender. Once you've
> got it started, gently lift while you tighten until tight.
>
> You may find it easier without the lockwasher, but I wanted it there to
> keep it from backing off. I don't have any of the 'Beams here to check,
> so I hope that I haven't missed anything. Good luck!
>
> Jeff Antosiak >>
>
>
>Alpiners,
>
>I did the same thing Jeff describes with a slight twist. I had a couple
>tonneau cover snaps with sheet metal screws that you could not tighten
against
>the body. I replaced the sheet metal screws w/ 6-32 machine screws. Once
I
>fished the wire down the hole and pulled thru a length of string I did the
>following:
>
>Drill and tap a hole matching your lift-dot-stud, machine screw,etc
centered
>in a 1/8" thk rectangle of "small" mild steel plate. Make sure the plate
is
>long enough that you can put a drop of epoxy on both ends.
>
>Pass the string thru the plate and knot enough times that it just holds
with
>light pressure.
>
>Put a drop of epoxy on both ends of the plate.
>
>Pull the plate up against the inside of the body, making sure the threaded
>hole is centered.
>
>Hold pressure against the plate by pulling on the string. No you don't
have
>to hold the string all nite! I attached a rubber band to the string and
>pulled the rubber band up thru a cardboard toilet paper tube (which I have
>plenty of living w/three females, wife and two kids). Pass a 16d nail thru
>the tensioned rubber band at the top of tube.
>
>
>Next morning........give the string a good tug and the knot will come on
thru
>the threads.
>
>Insert your hardware with some locktite 242 I think (not permanent loctite
>folks) and you are off and running.
>
>Bob Flak
>Series V (R SNBM)
>