It definitely sounds like you still have some air in the system.
Are you bleeding the old fashioned way or are you using one of those new
fangled Power bleeders? Since the brake lights are presure activated you're
either not moving any fluid or are just compressing air, or stretching a
very weak hose during that first third of the travel.
I remember mine as being very firm and right near the top. I loved
it that way and was constantly moving the e-brake handle up a click each
week to keep it there. Used up rear brake pretty quick, but could stop on a
dime and give back change !!
Rich
> ----------
> From: GSTROM99[SMTP:GSTROM99(at)aol.com]
> Reply To: GSTROM99
> Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 6:48 PM
> To: alpines(at)autox.team.net
> Subject: Series II Brake help?
>
> Nearing the end of this year long restoration, I rebuilt the calipers, new
> pads, replaced the left wheel cyl., it already had almost new shoes.
>
> The trouble now is, even after bleeding multiple!!! times, the pedal is
> pretty
> good and hard but it's 1/3 way down. I even took the master out, and it
> pushes fluid out with just the slightest rod movement. Rear brake
> adjustment
> is nice and tight, and no change of pedal height with the emergency brake
> applied. The brake light switch also turns on the lights once the pedal
> becomes hard (1/3 way down).
>
> I only drove this about 4 miles to get it home (last year) when I first
> got
> it, and I don't remember the pedal being low like this even with worn
> pads...
> Either way, I don't like any brake pedal that is not right at the top and
> rock
> hard!!
>
> Am I missing something here? Any ideas on how to raise my pedal??
>
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