Re: New Alpine Owner

Rex Funk (rexfunk(at)magick.net)
Wed, 8 Jul 1998 17:24:30 -0700


Larry wrote: I am about to take possession of a 1965 Series V Alpine; I would judge it > to be in #4 condition. Needs interior and body work; some floor rust (not
> too much) and little evident rust around the rear wheel arches. It comes
> with a spare engine which I understand is in better shape than the engine
> now installed and I intend to swap engines soon.

Consider spending some time evaluating the driveline, brakes, and other moving parts by cautiously driving it for a while. If you're goning to tear it down, it would be good to know what you need to repair. How is the trans, overdrive, rear end, brakes, etc? These are best evaluated by driving.

>Is an Alpine engine swap a difficult chore?

Not with the right tools. Start with a good manual and follow it step-by-step. I think the best way to remove the engine is to take the trans with it. After draining fluids, removing the hood (bonnet), fan, radiator, exhaust, driveshaft, disconnecting battery and electricals, throttle linkage, plumbing, (clutch line, oil guage line, heater hoses, fuel line) engine mount bolts, etc., support the rear of the trans with a floor jack, and remove the trans cross member, speedo cable, overdrive wires, and shift lever. Attach a chain to the bracket at the front of the head and one of the rear head corner studs via bolt and washer. Use a hoist or cherry picker to pull the engine, lowering the trans, and inclining the engine and trans about 45 degrees or more as you pull it out of the engine compartment. you'll have to raise it high to clear the front lip of the engine compartment. Roll the car back, or if you have a cherry picker, roll it and the engine back. Watch the sheetmetal, and make sure the engine doesn't bind as you're pulling it.

You'll want to renew the seals on the trans, and probably should opt for a new clutch and throwout bearing. Check to see if the flywheel needs surfacing. Make sure to renew all the gaskets and seals you can, it's far more difficult to do this when the engine is installed.

An easy step is to plastiguage the main and rod bearings to see if they are within tolerance. If they are not, check the journals. A set of rod and main bearings is about $60, and may be all you need to freshen it up. A compression check is also a good idea if you can do it, or you might want to pull the head and inspect the bores. Alpine heads have a tendancy to erode around the water jackets (see the "bad head" thread on this list), so better safe than sorry.

Good luck,

Rex Funk

---------- > From: Larry <sparky(at)sas.ab.ca>
> To: alpines(at)autox.team.net
> Subject: New Alpine Owner
> Date: Wednesday, July 08, 1998 2:03 PM
>
> I am about to take possession of a 1965 Series V Alpine; I would judge it
> to be in #4 condition. Needs interior and body work; some floor rust (not
> too much) and little evident rust around the rear wheel arches. It comes
> with a spare engine which I understand is in better shape than the engine
> now installed and I intend to swap engines soon. I would appreciate any
responses and encouragement. This > is my first Alpine although I owned a 1962 Humber Super Snipe in the late
> 60's while in college.
>
> My new Alpine has an original hardtop and O/D as well and is in original
> condition with all parts.
>
> Thank you in advance for any help.