>Any thoughts here? Should I recheck my work? Anything else to look at? I've
>checked into a rebuild kit and having the carb rebuilt. At $30, the rebuild
>kit seemed to be the way to go, but I'd prefer if I could resolve the
>carburetor problem without having to pull the carburetor completely apart.
>A professional rebuild (Pierce Manifolds) should run $125 to $150, so I
>think I'd consider a new 32/36 DGV (as its seems more common and easier to
>get parts for it) before getting mine professionally rebuilt.
The green stuff you found is copper oxide. Could be from the jets after some water made it into yout gas supply, or it could be from you fuel line. It has most likely clogged your pilot jets and progression holes.
The carb that is most like your carb is the DGV, but you have some OEM carb like to a fiat because the primary on yours is only 28mm.
I suspect you will have to pull the carb to clean the procression holes, they are just beneath the pimary throttle plate when the throttle is closed.
Webers are very easy to rebuild, and if you are half savvy and have some tools, it is something that you can do yourself.
>One more thing, the Weber book recommends 3.5 lbs of fuel pressure. I
>checked my fuel pressure, and It looks like 1.5 lbs to me. I've considered
>an electric fuel pump, but would prefer to remain stock in this regard. I'm
>not opposed to non-original stuff on the car. It's just that it brings with
>it the hassles of wiring, additional electrical load, that awful buzzing,
>etc. Since I've seen the power improvement, I've been less focused on the
>fuel pressure issue as a source of the idling problem. Opinions?
The fuel pressure is not the source of your evils here.
You dont really need 3.5 PSI, I'd say you might only if under high speed driving you loose power, that cames back after you back off the throttle for a bit.
Jarrid Gross