I had cleaned and undercoated the tunnel before I put it back together. Had some minor touch up after it was back in there. Redo everything while you have it out. SS didn't have any rebuild parts available for the pivot arm. But they did have new pins. The rest is easy to get to from the outside, but the pin would be a pain. Replace it is my advice. Mine was worn and for less than $2 I didn't want to be down for a week. I drive mine almost everyday. The longest stretch I went without driving it was when I put the new clutch in and rebuilt and went over the rest of the drive train. I would say that's why I didn't pull the combo because I planned on doing a bunch of under side work.
Terry
I guess I've taken cars apart both from the top and bottom -----Original Message----- From: Jay Laifman <Jay_Laifman(at)countrywide.com> To: tsmith(at)coresys.net <tsmith(at)coresys.net> Cc: Alpine List <alpines(at)autox.team.net> Date: Friday, December 11, 1998 6:10 PM Subject: Re: Tranny Removal
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>I wrote:
>
>>Also, be very careful on supporting the rear of the engine. I'm not sure
>>what to suggest. The rear of the oil pan is angled, so you really can't
>>get a good spot for full support.
>
>Terry suggested:
>>Use a piece of wood that
>>straddles the back of the oil pan.
>
>I agree with Terry 100%. I also did that. It was just that the wood block
>was also on the same angle. So the spot where the jack hit the wood was
>not a flat surface, but the tip of the jack pad hitting the wood. I did
>not have any problems occur with it. But I was always anxious about the
>precarious balance, the lack of solid connection, and the torque the weight
>was putting on the tip of the jack pad.
>
>I would also like to point out that I did not list everything to do this,
>as others had pointed out some of the other stuff, like disconnecting the
>exhaust pipe and removing the oil filler spout or the entire valve cover.
>I am surprised at the different experience Terry had. I know for certain
>my valve cover came up against the fire wall before I had enough clearance
>to pull the transmission out. I think it is possible that the fan never
>would have hit. But, I know I had to take the radiator tubes off, because
>I didn't at first and they interfered. Mine is a SV too (albeit a very
>late SV), so I would have expected the same result as far as the valve
>cover. Maybe my engine sits back farther for some reason.
>
>One thing I did was raise the REAR of the car so that when I finally got
>the engine lowered, it might be closer to horizontal with the ground. That
>would allow a straight back pull ontop of a jack. I was not able to get
>the car up high enough to accomplish that horizontal, and still had to deal
>with it hanging down. Maybe you can get it even higher.
>
>One thing I do not have is a real big floor jack - you know those shop type
>ones with the long, attached handle that sticks up a good 4 feet. I have
>one of the smaller ones. Maybe there is a difference in the ability to
>balance things. And, maybe that explains the ease some had with the job,
>and the troubles I had. Just a thought. But, I really did have a bad time
>trying to get the tranny back in at an angle. I had to both tip the tranny
>on the jack at the same time as I was pushing it forward, at the same time
>as I was adjusting the angle to get it aligned, at the same time as I was
>trying to stop the tranny from rotating to the side. Maybe I did something
>wrong. Maybe I just need a larger jack. Hmmm, it is that time of year,
>Honey . . . .
>
>Jay
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