I've been following this thread with considerable interest, since I'm
the recent purchaser of a 1953 Sunbeam Talbot Saloon which I am in the
very early stages of restoring. The first problem I encountered was
overheating, so I had the radiator overhauled, which meant a new core in
this case, and the overheating problem appears completely solved. Then
I couldn't stand the gunk and the spiders any more, so I drove it to
local guy who steam-cleaned the engine and the complete underside. Then
I drove it home, but the brakes failed just as I got to my driveway.
Fortunately, there was no unpleasant consequence here; I managed to keep
it under control, and got it back in bed safely :)
I have been convinced that the next step is to pull the engine, take it
apart and rebuild it as necessary. Speaking of biting off more than you
can chew, this will be the first time I have even attempted such a
thing. I have made a connection, and hope to have someone who can act
as a consultant at various stages along the way, since I'm SURE I'd
screw it up without help. I've purchased the Factory Workshop Manual
for the car, and now I need to create workspace for myself in my
garage. If I'm gonna remove things like the Bonnet, and the front
seats, I'll need a place to put them. Also, I'd like to arrange it so
that losing parts is NOT problem, so I can't just drop things on the
floor!
Interestingly, when I bought the car, a spare engine, completely
disassembled, came with it. It may even include an OD, since I've got
two driveshafts, of different lengths. One idea I've had is to compare
the parts that come from the car and actually rebuild TWO engines, one
from the best parts, and the other from the worst. I started out this
project actually looking for a "proper" Alpine, and I still hope to get
one, so the extra engine may be a big plus if I end up with just a
chassis.
I am not a purist in these matters, and really only hope to end up with
a functional, good-looking Saloon, something that I can drive from time
to time without being a nervous wreck. I have no impulse to soup it up,
though I wouldn't mind doing little things that might improve
performance as I go, as long as it's not a major addition to the
expense, and so far as other modifications are concerned, I really care
about what works.
My project for this month, then, is to empty as much "stuff" from the
garage as possible. I've offered for sale a set of dining room chairs
that are taking space, a freezer, and some Sony speakers, so if anyone
is interested, give me a call - special consideration given to listers
:) Then I'm going to create shelf space and work surfaces for myself,
and start buying tools. One thing I'm interested in is an engine hoist.
I've heard of one which can be disassembled and stored compactly away
when not in use. Does anyone have a brand name that I can look for, or
any other advice about picking one up? It seems impractical to rent
every time I need one, since I then also have to rent a truck to pull
the damned thing, and it seems I might as well spend the money once and
get it over with.
Any comments will be read with great interest.
Irv Kostal
Jerome Yuzyk wrote:
>
> In article <3697333A.B857F77A(at)wisemaninsurance.com>, you wrote:
> > Jarrid,
> > Thanks for the reality check. I know an am biting off a large chuck. What I
> > had in mind was getting the car back to as original as possible. My car
>
> Yeah, so did I. It's the "as possible" part that needs watching.
>
> > originally came with OD and and somewhere along the line the engine and tranny
> > were swapped out for a Rapier engine. Runs good, but....
>
> Sounds like my first Parts Car. 1494cc Rapier block with std pistons, anyone?
>
> > I think I will take your advice though and slow down. I will probably but the
> > engine available now and store it for later. There is a Series I engine, carbs,
> > rad, manifold, Tranny and drive shaft currently available that is reported to be
> > in good condition.
>
> This is the smallest of the engines, BTW, only used for Series I. But,
> the least desirable, so getting spares should be easy.
>
> > When you say and OD is going to cost how much bucks are we talking.
>
> Probably near a thou, after getting one worth fixing, and then fixing
> it. I bought a gearbox/OD for $500 plus shipping. The gearbox was
> near-perfect, but we're replacing seals anyway. The OD was good, but had
> been almost-cooked, and the bill isn't quite in for making it right. ODs
> get abused, having either their tailshaft bent (the one from my Parts
> Car) or suffering oiling problems (not enough, too heavy, too slippery).
> Some parts are not available anymore, like tailshafts. Patience may be
> rewarded with a good find, otherwise it's $$$ and more patience.
>
> --
>
> - J e r o m e Y u z y k | jerome(at)supernet.ab.ca -
> - BRIDGE Scientific Services | www.tgx.com/bridge -
> - Sunbeam Alpine Series II #9118636 | www.tgx.com/bridge/sunbeam -
> - I'm going to SUNI III... Are You? | www.newsource.net/suni3 -
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